new to me 1976 KZ 900, wires go where?

I got my Dyna S at Z1E. It was $135 then. Ruined one due to a broken - cable. Be sure your electricals are good before you install one.
Steve

@ Mikaw
Just saw your thread on the build of your bike, very nice, great job! I know who to ask any questions!

wrote:

@ Mikaw
Just saw your thread on the build of your bike, very nice, great job! I know who to ask any questions!

Too kind, thank you. I’m just smart enough to be allowed to hold down the fort till the Calvary returns… 

@F64, Mikaw
checked for voltages , readings below
Instead of the white wire. opened the kill switch and probe on the yellow/red at the kill switch.
Then the other probe on each coil's positive terminal.
Key on ignition on
new coils read .53v and .52v
when I check the coils with kill switch off they are at .0v
 

0.52 is not great.
That yellow/red wire from the kill switch to the coil could be better. You don't have to do it now, but I would try to get that reading down to at least 0.2v. The bike will still fire and run but it will run better if you figure out what part of that wire is causing you to drop 0.5v.
It could even be the wire terminals at the ends. You are dropping 0.01v from one coil to the next which is good.

Ok,
Time for the points.....
I'll continue this in a bit.
Gotta fix the garage door.

Everyone, feel free to chime in. You may ask a relevant question I haven't thought of.

Hi rscone 11, given that the max volt drop from the battery- through  the ign switch - through the fuse box etc should be no more than 0.5v at the coils this would suggest a resistance fault to drop this much between the switch and the coil. As a resistance generates heat, and heat increases resistance the drop will increase the longer the circuit is live. Use the guide to check each connection (switch plug, Y/R to yellow coil wire connection) with a voltmeter. Check both sides of each connector. If this was a partial short it would pull the voltage down across the whole circuit so you wouldn’t have the difference between the switch and the coils WATCH HOW LONG THE CIRCUIT IS ON DURING TESTING, IF THE COILS START TO GET WARM SWITCH OFF AND TAKE A BREAK
happy hunting 

Ok

Meter DC V
Key on ignition on
Black probe negative battery post
Red probe positive battery post
Note voltage

Move black probe to the ignition points mounting plate.
Note voltage

Turn off ignition switch

Hopefully,  this voltage is the same as above showing you have a good ground at your points plate.


Rotate engine to TDC for one points set to open.

Turn on ignition.
Red probe on positive battery post.
Black probe each coil's negative terminal.
Note voltages.

Turn off ignition

Rotate engine till other points reach their TDC and open.
Red probe on positive battery post.
Black probe each coil's negative terminals again.
Note voltages

Turn off bike.

So,
Your voltages on the coils should be:
The coil with the points open will see close to 0.0v but because you have a voltage drop it will be closer to 0.9v.

The coil with the points closed will see close to battery voltage.  We will say 12v. It will be less but you get the idea.

When you rotate to the other points.
The coil voltages will swap.
The 0.9v will go to 12v.
The 12v will go to 0.9v.

This insures your points are opening and closing fully.

We'll check to see if the points are arcing once we fire up the bike. That will let us know how the condensers are doing.

Plus, I have a feeling your timing may be slightly off.
 

good afternoon,
@F64, Mikaw, Wookie58, Finally got some heat and time to check all below readings. I took apart the kill switch, it was a bit corroded but not terrible. I cleaned up the touch points and assembled pack together. I will have that reading below. I also charged the battery overnight since its been so cold. I haven't had it on a tender but the battery is new
Meter DC V, Key on, ignition on
Black probe negative battery post, Red probe positive battery post
Voltage = 12.43 v

Moved black probe to the ignition points mounting plate.
Voltage = 12.40v

Rotated engine to TDC for one points set to open.

Turn on ignition.
Red probe on positive battery post.
Black probe each coil's negative terminal. left coil voltage = left coil voltage = 1.42 v and slowly dropping  right coil voltage = 12.05 v

Rotated engine till other points reach their TDC and open.
Red probe on positive battery post.
Black probe each coil's negative terminals again, left coil voltage = left coil voltage = 11.42 v right coil voltage = 1.60v and slowly dropping


 

Check the positive side of the coils with the black meter lead on the battery negative post (the left coil looks low at a full volt down on the battery compared to .35v for the right) if the feed into the coil is ok then it looks like a resistance in the points side of the left coil

Per Wookie58
multimeter on DCV key on, ignition on - black on battery neg, red on positive, left coil 10.82v =, right coil = 10.79v

You may be able to fire the bike.
Grab some starting fluid.
Plugs in.

There is a possibility that the timing is off.
We can see if the bike will actually try to fire.
You have some voltage drops, but we sort those out later.

Is the battery voltage still 12.4v (1.6v drop to both coils)