new to me 1976 KZ 900, wires go where?

new readings below meter DCV, key on, ignition on, both new coils installed, pics below of points and headlight bucket, no exposed wires grounded that I can see.
red on battery +, black battery - = 11.94v
red probe on white wire at key switch 
Left coil positive(red/yellow) reads .996v
right coil positive reads .991v
how do I get a reading on the white wire in the bucket? to get a reading at the kill switch pull apart the switch?
 

Not to step on the Calvary’s toes here but a word of caution. Make the time “on” for the run,stop,run short. You can burn out coils if they are in the power on state and not discharging (spark/fire). 

You should be able to access the white through the connector from the right hand control. It will also be in the harness that comes out of the ignition switch. All those should terminate in the bucket if they are oem intact. Dealers choice if they have been altered.

Thanks Mikaw.
I wasn't aware the coils could burn out like that. Thanks for the heads up. If the key switch is off and run is on is ok? I am going to get readings once I take apart the switch. Something I notice, the neutral light dims once I turn the kill switch to run from off.

You might want to check the voltage on the supply to the neutral light and see how much it changes when you switch the kill switch to run. It sounds like you may have a partial short in the ignition ( see fault finding guide in FAQ section) be lucky 
 

@Wookie58, where is the FAQ section, I've searched on this site or are you referring to the shop manual?

Instead of the white wire. You can put one probe on the yellow/red at the kill switch.
Then the other probe on each coil's positive terminal.
Key on ignition on
Voltages should be as close to 0.0V
Limit is 0.5v. Anything higher will be an issue.
We're checking the yellow/red wire from the kill switch to the coils.

Your coils are getting power. They aren't getting full power though.
We'll check the points next. Making sure they are closing and opening completely. No arcing. And a good ground.

wrote:

Thanks Mikaw.
I wasn't aware the coils could burn out like that. Thanks for the heads up. If the key switch is off and run is on is ok? I am going to get readings once I take apart the switch. Something I notice, the neutral light dims once I turn the kill switch to run from off.

Sorry for clarification it’s actually off-run-off, in the off position your coils are safe. Ignition on will power the rest of the bike. Power path from battery to coils is, battery white, fuse, white to ignition, ignition on, to brown, to off-run-off, to yellow/red, to coils primary. 

Rscone 11 you will find “FAQ” in the “index of forums” technical section 

Thanks Wookie58, I found it, great article and thanks for sharing it with me. I'll be trying to absorb as much as possible as I troubleshoot my issues here.

Good morning, @F64, Mikaw
Its crazy cold here today, 10 degrees so it may be a while before I get things heated up in my garage and able to do any work. Thanks for all the help.
I will get the readings F64 a little later this morning and report back.

Hi Steve,
@SWest, where did you buy your DYNA setup? Do you have the coils and the ignition setup?

rscone11… your new 4 ohm coils will work with the Dyna S.