Best Place To Have Stator Rewound?

loudhvx wrote:

It's kind of hard to tell in the photo, but just to be clear, the orange arrow is pointing to two wires twisted together, is that correct?

That would make sense.

If it's only one wire then where is the 4th wire?

Yes, two wires twisted together

Good sense on that electrical shop. It would probably be F'd up and then he'll say it your fault as he takes your money.

My source (OnkelB) for the info on doing a 3-phase from 1-phase swap is extremely reliable. If he says that the rotors are the same size, I believe him. I just can't be sure I remember correctly.

But there seem to be at least 4 generations, in my opinion, and there could be more based on crankshaft connections.

EDIT: I found one of the threads:
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...d=4&id=370732#370780

Read OnkelB's post. He has a 3-phase stator from electrex in a 79 motor with original 79 rotor. Presumably, that would be the same 3-phase stator for 81-82 bikes.

GeeeeeeZZZZZZZZZZZ!!
I've been following along, and being glad I've got no problems like that.
Back to those Stator connections. Have you taken off the crimps that "Ricks" put on, after taping the pairs together back a ways for later correct install, and Ohm checked each leg? Also I never saw a post of AC volts that the Stator put out. Are you sure that the Stator has a defect? Or is it in those connections to your harness?
Sure hope you can solve this, seems everyone here is trying to help you.

loudhvx wrote:

Good sense on that electrical shop. It would probably be F'd up and then he'll say it your fault as he takes your money.

My source for the info on doing a 3-phase from 1-phase swap is pretty damn reliable. If he says that the rotors are the same size, I believe him. I just can't be sure I remember correctly.

But there seem to be at least 4 generations, in my opinion, and there could be more based on crankshaft connections.

Well, I'd be most happy if it would bolt right on. Well see.

I do know you can use an '81 and later regulator/rectifier with the earlier charging system The first regulator I put on the bike was from an 81+. All we had to do was run the brown wire to switched 12v power.

As a matter of fact ........

loudhvx wrote:

I don't think there was a 1980 650 B model. It's probably a 1979 sold in 1980.

If your regulator/rectifier has 5 wires, and one is a brown wire, then it's a 1980 model reg/rec.

If it only has 4 wires, it's a 1979.

The 1980's extra brown wire just goes to a switched 12v source to sense the battery voltage while the ignition is on.

The 1979 reg/rec senses it's output wire and so eliminates the extra wire.

You could use either reg/rec, but the plugs would be different, and you would have to wire an extra wire in.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/07/24 13:00

That was from my first (of many) post on here about my electrical problemos.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...ew&catid=4&id=159192

seanof30306 wrote:

loudhvx wrote:

Good sense on that electrical shop. It would probably be F'd up and then he'll say it your fault as he takes your money.

My source for the info on doing a 3-phase from 1-phase swap is pretty damn reliable. If he says that the rotors are the same size, I believe him. I just can't be sure I remember correctly.

But there seem to be at least 4 generations, in my opinion, and there could be more based on crankshaft connections.

Well, I'd be most happy if it would bolt right on. Well see.

I do know you can use an '81 and later regulator/rectifier with the earlier charging system The first regulator I put on the bike was from an 81+. All we had to do was run the brown wire to switched 12v power.

As a matter of fact ........

loudhvx wrote:

I don't think there was a 1980 650 B model. It's probably a 1979 sold in 1980.

If your regulator/rectifier has 5 wires, and one is a brown wire, then it's a 1980 model reg/rec.

If it only has 4 wires, it's a 1979.

The 1980's extra brown wire just goes to a switched 12v source to sense the battery voltage while the ignition is on.

The 1979 reg/rec senses it's output wire and so eliminates the extra wire.

You could use either reg/rec, but the plugs would be different, and you would have to wire an extra wire in.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/07/24 13:00

That was from my first (of many) post on here about my electrical problemos.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...ew&catid=4&id=159192

Yes, but you can't do it the other way.

You can use a 3-phase reg/rec on a 1-phase alternator (all perm.mag. rotor etc. as discussed) but not a 1-phase reg/rec on a 3-phase alternator.

Also, just for accuracy, in the quote of me, you'll notice I said 1980, not 1981.

Please see my edit above regarding stator/rotor compatibility ala OnkelB.

Motor Head wrote:

GeeeeeeZZZZZZZZZZZ!!
I've been following along, and being glad I've got no problems like that.
Back to those Stator connections. Have you taken off the crimps that "Ricks" put on, after taping the pairs together back a ways for later correct install, and Ohm checked each leg? Also I never saw a post of AC volts that the Stator put out. Are you sure that the Stator has a defect? Or is it in those connections to your harness?
Sure hope you can solve this, seems everyone here is trying to help you.

In the pic you can see that one of the connectors is intact, the other was torn out when the wires got caught in the rotor.

I wanted to send it back to ricks so it could be tested after being repaired, but I could never get past the receptionist. The best i got was when she called me back and said it would have to be rewound, that it couldn't be fixed. I think that's BS. Clearly there's no damage to the windings, it's merely a matter of making up two new wires to carry the juice out to the regulator, attaching the four white wires from the stator to those two wires, and correctly tying the stubs of the four white wires to the stator.

When I had the stator rewound, I also got a new sub-harness running from the stator to the regulator/rectifier, so I don't think that's the problem.

So AC voltage output?????????

seanof30306 wrote:

...no damage to the windings, it's merely a matter of making up two new wires to carry the juice out to the regulator, attaching the four white wires from the stator to those two wires, and correctly tying the stubs of the four white wires to the stator....

Am probably missing something, but why isn't it feasible to connect each paired wire from stator to the harness by using an inline butt connector?

Good Fortune!

Motor Head wrote:

So AC voltage output?????????

Sorry, don't have that info for the 1-phase systems.

Open-load voltage tests are not really telling. Once again, it's one of those tests where if it fails badly (very low voltage), then yes, you know it's bad. But if it passes, it does not really confirm that it's working.

The only true test is a load test. This is not a difficult test to do, it just requires building a test fixture which will take a little time and a few automotive and/or 12 dc light bulbs.

It should be able to deliver at least 15 amps at 14v, so for a 1-phase alternator you get like 4 55W halogen bulbs and solder them in parallel. Then connect them directly to the stator and run the bike on a good battery. Put an AC volt meter on it and wathc the voltage as you rev the bike. It should get about 14v AC on the bulbs and they should light up bright. You have to be careful to carefully monitor the voltage as you rev because the bike may be able to burn out the bulbs with too much voltage.

I use the little halogens with reflectors that you can get for the home. They run on 12v dc.

Motor Head wrote:

So AC voltage output?????????

I don't know. Mechanic #2, who (incorrectly) installed the stator, would get very excited when asked about that, insisting that volts were meaningless and amps were what was important, and that it was charging properly. I never had a chance to check it myself, as by the time I gave up on him and got my bike back, it wasn't charging at all, and the damage to the stator was found.

seanof30306 wrote:

Motor Head wrote:

So AC voltage output?????????

I don't know. Mechanic #2, who (incorrectly) installed the stator, would get very excited when asked about that, insisting that volts were meaningless and amps were what was important, and that it was charging properly. I never had a chance to check it myself, as by the time I gave up on him and got my bike back, it wasn't charging at all, and the damage to the stator was found.

I don't know about mechanic #2.

20 amps a 1 volt is not the same as 10 amps at 14v.

Doesn't he owe you a stator?

Patton wrote:

seanof30306 wrote:

...no damage to the windings, it's merely a matter of making up two new wires to carry the juice out to the regulator, attaching the four white wires from the stator to those two wires, and correctly tying the stubs of the four white wires to the stator....

Am probably missing something, but why isn't it feasible to connect each paired wire from stator to the harness by using an inline butt connector?

Good Fortune!

What you can't see in the pic is the damage to the wires running from the butt connectors out to the regulator. Mechanic #3 spliced, soldered and shrink-wrapped them, but the repair is not flexible enough, and causes the bracket which holds those wires down to rub against the rotor.

What needs to happen is the two wires running from the butt connectors out to the regulator need to be replaced, and the white wires need to be reattached to the stator. Mechanic #3 said he doesn't know for sure what the correct material to attach those wires without causing electrical problems is, and I wanted the stator tested properly so I can be sure it's good before trying it on the bike again, so I tried having it professionally repaired; first by Ricks's, then by MR. Haney's Alternator Repair and Plumbing.

sigh ......

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