Best Place To Have Stator Rewound?

seanof30306 wrote:

otakar wrote:

Take a picture of the one you have and post it, because that year had two different alternators.

The '79 model had two different alternators? I thought it was '77 that had the alternator, and mine had a stator?

I'm at work now, can't post any pics till later.

Am thinking the terminology is as follows:

Alternator (aka dynamo or generator) is composed of the rotor and the armature (aka stator or windings).

Permanent magnets may be in the rotor to supply the magnetic field for the armature.

I believe some systems use electro magnets whereby the amount of alternating current produced may be regulated by current supplied to the alternator.

Others will likely have better info about this.

Good Fortune!

Alternator output may be lowered or prevented by a short in the wiring or by a break in the wiring. Or by a weakened magnet (through age, or dropping or hitting the rotor).

Good Fortune!

otakar wrote:

Take a picture of the one you have and post it, because that year had two different alternators.

Here is the stator:

OK that is the new stile. That one should be available as an aftermarket item for around $100-$125 and a higher output.

otakar wrote:

OK that is the new stile. That one should be available as an aftermarket item for around $100-$125 and a higher output.

Can you tell me where? I've done a lot of searching, and found none. I also talked to Electrosport, they don't make one.

Also, earlier you said some people were upgrading to KZ750 charging systems. I've searched it, but can't find anything. Can you give me details?

Thanks

Patton wrote:

Alternator output may be lowered or prevented by a short in the wiring or by a break in the wiring. Or by a weakened magnet (through age, or dropping or hitting the rotor).

Good Fortune!

Patton, are you talking about a short or a break in the wiring between the stator to the regulator/rectifier to the battery, or one elsewhere in the harness?

seanof30306 wrote:

Motor Head wrote:

To have all of your problems with your system, judging on all of the posts, you still have an on going electrical issue. A rewound stator will probably fry again, as you have already found out. Now a long while ago you posted the WG mod done, is this by passing you gremlin? Sounds like the low voltage to the coils is a problem with either a switch or wire connection. The later R/R has a brown wire that is from the Ignition switch circuit, this is the voltage sense wire for the R/R and if it sees a lower voltage it will tell the stator to put put a higher voltage and boil the battery. A difference of 1v is enough to cause this as the battery will get 15v or more when the Ignition sense/ brown wire has 13. something.
Best be very careful putting on more new/ used or rebuilt parts without being 100% sure all of the OLD wiring/ switches etc are in good working order, as they will probably fail again.

We've just gotten though putting a whole 'nother wiring harness of the bike, and (hopefully) those issues are dealt with. Where it was only showing 8v at the headlight before, it shows over 11 now. The intermittent problems with bright light, blinkers and horn not working appear to be gone, too.

Yes, I absolutely believe all of these stators and voltage regulators have not been failing by accident, but I still have no idea of why they've been failing. Each time mechanic #1 and mechanic #2 announced they'd found the problem, that all I needed to do was replace another battery, stator, regular/rectifier, rotor, etc., that I would be on my way, I kept telling them there had to be an underlying cause.

Here's what I can say with a pretty high degree of certainty; the grounds are good, there are no more shorts, bad wires, corroded connectors, etc. Back when I started the thread asking whether the WG coil mod could be causing these failures, the overwhelming response was it couldn't.

I just don't know what else to do. Every piece of advice I'm gettin lately involves scopes and wiring automotive headlights up in tandem, etc. It's all way beyond me.

When I first got this bike, everyone said get a Clymer manual, so I did. Then everyone said get a factory service manual, so i did. Then eveyone said get the Electrosport charging system troubleshooting guide, and I did. But now, apparently every test and paramater for voltage and amperage in those books is bullshit, because every time I post results of those tests and ask questions about them they're either ignored, or I'm told I need to put a scope on it, etc.

Man, I'm just a guy who wants to ride his motorcycle, play poker, and leer at women too hot for me ever to have a shot at.

I'm in Tulsa, OK. If there's anybody within 200 miles who thinks they can solve this, I'll load it up Monday and bring it to you (I'll pay for the help, of course).

If there isn't, I'm going to see if loudvhx will let me load it up and bring it to him in Chicago. I just can't take this anymore.

have you checked with sid pogue in oklahoma city?he used to crank out tons of work on the 900-1000s,i wonder if he knows of somebody in your area that could handle it for you?

Looking at your picture, it looks like you have a crimp connector where you join up to your harness? Recommend you solder and heat shrink this.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationTake a look at this. You can't beat the price and it looks like new.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationHere is another.

Those look like single phase stators. Do you only have two wires coming from the coils?

seanof30306 wrote:

Patton wrote:

Alternator output may be lowered or prevented by a short in the wiring or by a break in the wiring. Or by a weakened magnet (through age, or dropping or hitting the rotor).

Good Fortune!

Patton, are you talking about a short or a break in the wiring between the stator to the regulator/rectifier to the battery, or one elsewhere in the harness?

Wiring referring to the coil wires aka windings.

Good Fortune!