1980 750H bare bones for mattylight

I appreciate your commitment to helping people like me figure out wiring. I have recently picked up a 1980 KX750G twin; it's best to assume that we're starting over electrically. I'd like to go no-battery, but use a key in the same way you arranged for "1980 KZ 1000 E@ Shaft drive No Battery for Rockabillybobber". One question I have is what to do with the oil pressure and neutral wires? do I just cap those off or can I include them? I appreciate your help and other's advice in advance.

rift.sawn wrote: I appreciate your commitment to helping people like me figure out wiring. I have recently picked up a 1980 KX750G twin; it's best to assume that we're starting over electrically. I'd like to go no-battery, but use a key in the same way you arranged for "1980 KZ 1000 E@ Shaft drive No Battery for Rockabillybobber". One question I have is what to do with the oil pressure and neutral wires? do I just cap those off or can I include them? I appreciate your help and other's advice in advance.

I assume you mean a Kz750G twin. Correct?

The bike should be perfectly tuned before you try to get rid of the battery. If it has any difficulty starting on the first kick, removing the battery will just make it harder to start. Also, be aware, all of the lights need to be off when starting, especially the headlight. That single kick has to charge the capacitor fully and fire the ignition. It will not be able to do it with the lights on. I use a relay to automatically shut off the lights when the motor stops. In this diagram, it is done with a 3-position ignition switch. But if it stalls, you have to remember to turn the ignition switch back to acc position to turn the lights off in order to re-start. It usually helps to bump the idle up a tiny bit to prevent stalls from irregular takeoffs, like if someone steps in front of you when you are leaving from a stop sign etc.

Open the image in another page to see it full-size, or maybe download it first.

1980 Kawasaki Kz750G1 twin for rift.sawn, batteryless.


EDIT 1/15/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1980 Kawasaki Kz750G1 twin batteryless for Rift_sawn
Kz750G Kz750 G1 Kz 750 G 750G1 750G

Yes - a KZ not a KX; still having problems letting go of my dirt bike...
Would substituting LED lighting have some of the same effect as a slightly faster idle?
In any case, this is very helpful. Thank you.

Yes, using less current for the rest of the bike will free up power for the ignition. But this is only an issue when you accidentally let the rpms drop to like 500 or even lower. That is not normally a problem. But being in a city, all sorts of unexpected stuff jumps out at you while riding, so it's not always possible to keep the rpms normal. I'd say the bike stalls about once every few years due to a pedestrian or car suddenly materializing from hyperspace.

Thanks again. As I look for parts to piece this diagram together, I see regulator rectifiers for the '80 KZ750G twin that have only four wires: two from the dynamo/stator, a black to ground, and a red/yellow. The brown seems to be missing. Since we'd be splicing the brown into the red/yellow in the diagram, is it safe to go with one of these 4-wire regulator/rectifiers?

rift.sawn wrote: Thanks again. As I look for parts to piece this diagram together, I see regulator rectifiers for the '80 KZ750G twin that have only four wires: two from the dynamo/stator, a black to ground, and a red/yellow. The brown seems to be missing. Since we'd be splicing the brown into the red/yellow in the diagram, is it safe to go with one of these 4-wire regulator/rectifiers?

Yes, but get a new one, or a very recent used one. 35 year old reg/recs might not have much life left in them. They can fail in a gradual way, which means it can strand you miles from home with no battery to get you back.

Most Kaw factory reg/recs, that I have looked into, have the brown wire. So if you want a new-ish 4-wire one, it will probably be aftermarket.

Make sure it is a regulator & rectifier, and not just a rectifier. And make sure it is for a permanent magnet alternator.

1977 Kawasaki Kz1000 for AssemblyRequired

EDIT 1/15/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1977 Kawasaki Kz1000 for AssemblyRequired
Kz 1000

1984 Kawasaki Zn1100B1 Ltd. for Badmonk, with corrected coil wiring.




I have removed the original diagram and substituted this corrected diagram in the original post. Please do not edit this post else the attachment will be lost. Thanks Bill KZQ

1982 Kawasaki KZ1000P police bike for MDSBLCK
Due to its width, you may have to download it first, and open it on your computer to see it full size.
Or open it in a new window.


EDIT 1/15/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1982 Kawasaki Kz1000P for MDSBLCK
Kz1000 P Kz 1000 1000P

loudhvx, you're a beast. So fast. Thanks so much. This looks waaaay simpler than what I was tinkering with myself. I'll head to the garage in a minute and try to make sense of it all, so I can start ordering wire and connectors and stuff.

Anyone have a preferred vendor for all the supplies? I was recommended Cycle Terminal for terminals and connectors, and Rhode Island Wire for the wire...

I use point-to-point wiring rather than the sectioned harness from the factory. So basically the whole bike is one big harness, with a couple subharnesses, like for the pickup plate, and handlebar area.

I use generic, 1/4" crimp spade terminals. This greatly reduces the supplies I need to carry when I go to rewire a bike. Large connectors are needed if you have a more complex wiring. I usually do bare-bones stuff so it's pretty easy to just memorize it.

Crimped connectors seem to last longer, in my experience. Soldering weakens the copper and sometimes promotes corrosion. I will solder a T joint in the harness as long as I know it's going to be supported by other continuous wires, and will be taped over to keep out moisture.

I use a really good, ratcheting crimper, and try to get decent Panduit connectors.
www.harborfreight.com/ratcheting-crimping-tool-97420.html
I think I up the crimp pressure one notch from normal.

This is the stripper I use, but there should be a decent cheaper one available,
www.amazon.com/Ideal-Industries-Stripmas...ripper/dp/B000RFSWF8


So with all that, I just use automotive wire available at auto parts stores. Pep-Boys had a pretty good selection of sizes and colors.

Basically, I keep things simple and make sure my supplies are easily available, since I will often end up rewiring a bike on the fly. It's often faster than trying to troubleshoot a hundred other wiring problems. And usually, when I pull and old harness, and dissect it, I find many places where the harness has failed is is about to fail.

You can get the stripper from Depot. Excellent tool. I've used it for years "roping houses". Unlike other strippers, it doesn't nick the wire. With solid wire, that can cause it to break while pushing the receptacle into the boxes thus avoiding opening them all up to find one broken wire.
I wouldn't use anything else.
Steve