RS34 Tuning Assistance Please

asphalt900 wrote:

Im sure it possible to change-out a guide seal while head is still in place? 

 

I designed a "special" tool for the purpose. 

A working prototype has been fabricated and tested...

🙂
 

I'd like to see it if you don't mind. 

SWest wrote:

I'd like to see it if you don't mind. 

 

Wish I could...

I'll start a new topic in the Engine category after my cylinder #3 valve seal replacement is successfully completed.

New Viton valve seals are expected next week, at which time I will probably be set to dive in.

😉
 

      I had a similar issue with my GPZ1100A1 engine, I had new valves fitted, seals etc, after w while I noticed a slight puff of smoke on de-acceleration, obviously the valve guide seal was suspect. I found that the valve guide on the one cylinder was slightly up compared to the others so the under bucket actually touched the seal. I used the compressor method to hold the valve in place made a valve compressor tool, used a b rass bar and "gently" tapped the guide down, fitted a new seal, no more oil consumption.

I had the same problem on cyl #3 and I share this because it happened to me. If the rectifier didn’t leave the hone finish perfect, the rings can take forever to seat. Zed1015 already told me about this too, and he was right.On my bike, the national liner (aftermarket sleeve) seated in just a few hundred kilometers, but the original Japanese cylinders are much harder, and the rings need thousands of kilometers to bed in. At first mine burned a lot of oil, but over time it started to improve.Part of the solution was to ride it hard – strong acceleration and long engine braking. That pressure makes the rings bite on both sides of the groove and seat faster. It’s not only about valve seals; if the rings aren’t seated, oil will always get through.

Bozo wrote:

 

I used the compressor method to hold the valve in place made a valve compressor tool...fitted a new seal, no more oil consumption.

Hoping the solution for my motor is similarly simple.

🙄

 

To hold the in/exh valve closed with air pressure, I was thinking of using my compression tester hose with it's Schrader valve removed.

Is that preferable to having it as a precautionary check valve?

🤔

Assuming this might be the same problem as yours. The way to check is use a video scope to check if the intake/ exhaust valve is oiled up (see my previous scope photo).

I was lucky, I had a hose made for another job. make sure the piston is down as the air will push it down, unless the air drops completely there should no be any problem.

Remember my problem was obvious i.e smoke on de acceleration, it could still be another issue.

 

My personal preference (and it is just that) is to do this with the piston at the top (I tend to air on the side of caution and with the piston at the top, should your air line burst the valve can't fall in) The easiest way to do this single handed is to pressurise two cylinders together (one up and one down) using a "Y" piece on the air line. It's easy enough to make fittings for the head by welding air line fittings into the shells of old spark plugs with the ceramic removed

Bozo wrote:

Assuming this might be the same problem as yours. The way to check is use a video scope to check if the intake/ exhaust valve is oiled up (see my previous scope photo).

I was lucky, I had a hose made for another job. make sure the piston is down as the air will push it down, unless the air drops completely there should no be any problem.

Remember my problem was obvious i.e smoke on de acceleration, it could still be another issue.
 

I'm surprised that the hose typically provided with compression gauge kits has the proper end fittings needed for this purpose.

What was your #1 spark plug condition compared to the other three?

With the clutch engaged, will it work to lock the engine's forward rotation in-position (slightly beyond TDC) with a block of wood placed between a wheel spoke and the swingarm?
 

daveo wrote:

Bozo wrote:

Assuming this might be the same problem as yours. The way to check is use a video scope to check if the intake/ exhaust valve is oiled up (see my previous scope photo).

I was lucky, I had a hose made for another job. make sure the piston is down as the air will push it down, unless the air drops completely there should no be any problem.

Remember my problem was obvious i.e smoke on de acceleration, it could still be another issue.

 

I'm surprised that the hose typically provided with compression gauge kits has the proper end fittings needed for this purpose.

What was your #1 spark plug condition compared to the other three?

With the clutch engaged, will it work to lock the engine's forward rotation in-position (slightly beyond TDC) with a block of wood placed between a wheel spoke and the swingarm?

 

Yes but the cams will be removed at this stage and when the engine tries to rotate you will need to ensure it doesn't "snag" the cam chain on the crank !!

Wookie58 wrote:

daveo wrote:

Bozo wrote:

Assuming this might be the same problem as yours. The way to check is use a video scope to check if the intake/ exhaust valve is oiled up (see my previous scope photo).

I was lucky, I had a hose made for another job. make sure the piston is down as the air will push it down, unless the air drops completely there should no be any problem.

Remember my problem was obvious i.e smoke on de acceleration, it could still be another issue.


 

I'm surprised that the hose typically provided with compression gauge kits has the proper end fittings needed for this purpose.

What was your #1 spark plug condition compared to the other three?

With the clutch engaged, will it work to lock the engine's forward rotation in-position (slightly beyond TDC) with a block of wood placed between a wheel spoke and the swingarm?


 

Yes but the cams will be removed at this stage and when the engine tries to rotate you will need to ensure it doesn't "snag" the cam chain on the crank !!
 

Sounds like a plan!

😉