Valve Noise/No compression

You should get a copy of the Factory Kawasaki Service Manual for your bike. Haynes Manual will be to Vague on many aspects of repair, Crappy pictures etc.
I know there is a download pdf version link here on KZR, do a search for it, or maybe someone will post the link. I thought I posted it for you in the past also, but I don't have that one book marked.
Here have a look at zedder from the UK:
www.zedrider.co.uk/service--owners-manuals.html

BIGKEVIN, after reading this entire post I'm a bit confused. (normal for me) My question is this, What feeler gauge can you get between the cam (with the lobe pointing away from the bucket) and the bucket? Should be between .004 and .006. Thanks, Z1Driver

PS, I've had good results getting parts from Redline Cycle Service inc. They sell good stuff and at times are a little cheaper.

Well after checking my for real service manual it said valve clearance should be .002 to .004. I would check my owners manual but it's in the bike and I can't get to it right now. It's locked up in a friends garage and he is out of town.

Motor Head wrote: You should get a copy of the Factory Kawasaki Service Manual for your bike. Haynes Manual will be to Vague on many aspects of repair, Crappy pictures etc.
I know there is a download pdf version link here on KZR, do a search for it, or maybe someone will post the link. I thought I posted it for you in the past also, but I don't have that one book marked.
Here have a look at zedder from the UK:
www.zedrider.co.uk/service--owners-manuals.html

Here is a service manual for the 1973 Z1. Would that be close enough to the 1976 model to provide some assistance?

Z1Driver wrote: BIGKEVIN, after reading this entire post I'm a bit confused. (normal for me) My question is this, What feeler gauge can you get between the cam (with the lobe pointing away from the bucket) and the bucket? Should be between .004 and .006. Thanks, Z1Driver

Well after checking my for real service manual it said valve clearance should be .002 to .004. I would check my owners manual but it's in the bike and I can't get to it right now. It's locked up in a friends garage and he is out of town.

The original valve clearance for the Z1 was .002 to .004 there was a change made to allow the valves claearance to go to .006.

I took the head off of the bike and was told to turn the head upside down and pour some gasaline where the valve heads are and see if the gasaline runs out of the head. I did that it ran out of the #3 exhaust side, but the gas I pour in the #2 valve area did not. A mechanic looked at the valve while it was still in the head and should me where it was grey, meaning that it was burnt. I took the valve out and the side of the valve head that would normally go against the head was shiny about half way around it and black the rest of the way. Looks like the valve wasn't sealing again the head. I looked at the valve stem and do see where it is bent, but I was told that it doesn't take much of a bend for the valve not to seal. Does it sound like I need a new exhaust valve ?

Yes you would need a new valve if bent any. Your machine shop will be able to tell you.

I replace the valve and put the cylinder head back on, but I do not know what the torque specification is. I know what the sequence is, but not how tight to tighten the head down to. Does anyhone know what is it ?

I found where the head should be torqued to 29 lbs/ft. I torqued the head and put the cams back in and ave them lined up where they should, but there is not enough slack in the chain to put both came back where the should be. Is there a automatic cam chain tensionor on the 1976 KZ900 ? If so, where is it located. Any ideas on why there would not be enough slack in the chain ?

Should be on the back of the cylinder sleeve, right below and between the #2 and #3 carbs.

If the cam chain tensioner is "full out", that might do it. Another possibility is that you've got a loop of chain in the oil pan.Get a mirror and a flash light and see if you can look down the cam chain throat in the middle of the cylinder column. You'll also be able to see the cam chain tensioner sticking from the back of the cylinders that way too.

BIGKEVIN wrote: I found where the head should be torqued to 29 lbs/ft. I torqued the head and put the cams back in and ave them lined up where they should, but there is not enough slack in the chain to put both came back where the should be. Is there a automatic cam chain tensionor on the 1976 KZ900 ? If so, where is it located. Any ideas on why there would not be enough slack in the chain ?

The chain tensioner is on the back side down low on the cylinder by the carbs. I don't think it is automatic for the KZ900, but yes remove it, then unlock the lock bolt and push the tensioner all the way back then lock it down and reinstall. Then after putting everything back together you will need to unlock the tensioner and let it tighten the chain back up then lock it down.

You seriously trying to put this back together w/out a service manual... :ohmy:

FREE Z1 manual is 98% the same.... Z1 - 900 Service Manual

wow that's what I thought.
I tried that on an output shaft replacement. sealed the cases and then i thought i
would check the manual and realised i didn't check the oil galleries line up on
the shaft.
gotta go by the bible of Z.