Valve Noise/No compression

I thought that I had teh cams timed correctly, but I guess that I didn't. When I get the valve in and get it into the head, I will have someone else check the cam setup also to make sure I have everything setup correctly beore and after securing the cam caps and turning over the crank.

On this bent valve, what shim size is in there...?
If this was too tight to start with, could have bent from the start.
You may want to open the valve clearance (thinner shim by 2 -3 sizes) for initial setup... Once everything is bolted down to spec, install chain tensioner, rotate crank manually for binding & check/replace shims to spec for all valve clearances.

TDC 1/4 (ignition plate cover markings)....

CAM lobe positions from right side of bike....
NOTE left image where CAM lobe tip off head decking (1 tooth), right side is correct....
Also note chain slack in left image with tensioner out and top idler not installed.

I didn't even think about the shims. I will put thinner shims in the next time and see what happens. I am pretty sure that I had the cams timed correctly.

I put thinner shims in on all 8 vales and still unable to get the crank to turn. What are the cam caps supposed to be tightened down to ? In the Z1 manaul it says 105 in/lbs while I have read in 2 other places that they should be tightend to between 9 and 12 ft/lbs. I have been tightening don to 105 in/lbs. Could it be that I am tightening down the cam caps too tight on the cam ?

Your cap torque should not effect engine rotation. I would look the cam installation over again and make sure the are in fact shims in every bucket . I would assume your are using assembly lube?

According to my 1st addition shop Manuel, 105 inch pounds is correct.

My experience is that 105 inch pounds will result in at least two stripped threads - at least it did on my 1000 last summer. For new installation, 105 is probably good, but with an old head, I wouldn't go higher than 90. I set my wrench at 88 and my cams are happy as can be.

There is some collected wisdom that thinks that 105 is just too high. You can go back through the forums and find lots of respected posters that will recommend closer to 90 than 105.

I finally got back to checking on this. I have the timing mark on the T for cylinders 1 and 4. I installed the cams with the carrot pointing to the top of the block. The exhaust cam carrot pointing to the front of the bike and intake cam pointing towards the back of the bike. I installed the upper chain tensionor and tried turning the 17 mm bolt on the right hand side of the bike, but can only get it to turn about a 1/4 of a turn before I hear a clunking sound and it will not turn anymore. The automatic tensionor is not installed yet. As far as I can tell, I have the cams installed oorrectly and have not been able to figure out why I can not rotate the 17 mm bolt. Any ideas ?

BIGKEVIN wrote: I finally got back to checking on this. I have the timing mark on the T for cylinders 1 and 4. I installed the cams with the carrot pointing to the top of the block. The exhaust cam carrot pointing to the front of the bike and intake cam pointing towards the back of the bike. I installed the upper chain tensionor and tried turning the 17 mm bolt on the right hand side of the bike, but can only get it to turn about a 1/4 of a turn before I hear a clunking sound and it will not turn anymore. The automatic tensionor is not installed yet. As far as I can tell, I have the cams installed oorrectly and have not been able to figure out why I can not rotate the 17 mm bolt. Any ideas ?

My two cents.
I've had this happen before when setting the exhaust cam without pulling the chain tight before rolling it into the bearings. What I had was a bunched up chain inside just above the crank which prevented crank rotation. Pulled the camshaft out again, while pulling hard on the chain with the left hand and turning the 17mm bolt clockwise to break the jam loose. Don't be timid about turning the crank with the wrench. Just make sure it is lined up with the timing mark before inserting the camshaft gear into the chain, and keep it tight through the process. You should be able to wrench-rotate the crank, while feeling the corresponding movement through the chain (being held tight with the left hand).
Once you got that one in, the rest is a breeze. I hope this makes sense, cause I know what you're going thru...
Good luck.
Another thought to add; When putting my cams into the bearings (after a smear of assembly lube on each), I don't use the 6mm bolts to draw the cam/cam-caps down. I prefer to use two Bessey Tradesman woodworking clamps to draw the cam-caps down before inserting the bolts. Then I'll snug each bolt set down, following (very carefully) with the torque wrench. Once set, carefully remove the clamps. This method prevents unnecessarily stressing the threads, and keeps them nice for that final torque. There is a nice recess area provided directly below each cam-cap location to position the fixed end of the clamp into, (at the outer-underside of the J-head casting). You just need to take the plastic cap off the clamp-end for it to fit into the space. I will go through the same process for cam removal.

You need to have the tensinor installed before atempting to rotate the motor over.

I also use the Kawasaki factory tool to adjust my valves, but it is very easy to bend a valve slightly with the tool since it holds the valve wide open you should only slightly move the crank once installed and do it gently.

I try putting it back together again and installing the automatic chain tensionor. With the cams installed, should the #2 cam lobe be pushing the valve down ?

I checked on this again after not doing anything for a few weeks. I have the head back on the bike and installed the cams. The exhaust cam lay flat while the intake cam is sticking up on the left hand side due to the #2 lobe on the cam prissing agianst the #2 intake shim. Should the intake cam be laying flat like the exhaust cam ? I have also seen where a clamp is used to push the cam down while you are tightening down the cam caps. Any help would be appreciated.