Valve Noise/No compression

Thanks LarryC and Patton. I have order the chain, master link, and chain breaker from Z1. Parts should be here in a couple of days.

I have a question while waiting for the parts to arrive. I ordered a 122 link cam and a master link, do I need to remove a link from the new chain since I will be adding the master link ?

I just did the same cam chain replacement on my bike that was streached. If you get the same chain that I just received from Z1 you will have to grind a link off to feed it thru and then just replace it with the master link. It wil come already together,...as a never ending chain. The master link is made to just press on. You do not need to peen the ends. I did peen it anyway just in case but the link is made as a press on.

I have another question regard the chain replacement. Does it matter which way the opening on the master link is facing ? When I replaced the primary chain, the master link had to be facing a certain direction so it wouldn't come apart.

The tsubaki chain and link I used was just a press on. So you have the master link that goes thru the chain end holes and the other side (flat plate with two holes) just presses onto the male ends. There is no u shaped metal that has to be pressed onto notches to hold the plate on. So there is no opening. I hope I am explaining this properly? If you bought the tsubaki (heavy) cam chain from Z1 the pictures shows a u shaped metal piece to hold the side plate on but it did not come with one. When I called z1 they stated it is press on and does not use it,...and the link has no notches for one. I have about 400 miles on mine and it is holding so far. Although I did peen the ends of the link as an extra precautionary measure.

JimB wrote: The tsubaki chain and link I used was just a press on. So you have the master link that goes thru the chain end holes and the other side (flat plate with two holes) just presses onto the male ends. There is no u shaped metal that has to be pressed onto notches to hold the plate on. So there is no opening. I hope I am explaining this properly? If you bought the tsubaki (heavy) cam chain from Z1 the pictures shows a u shaped metal piece to hold the side plate on but it did not come with one. When I called z1 they stated it is press on and does not use it,...and the link has no notches for one. I have about 400 miles on mine and it is holding so far. Although I did peen the ends of the link as an extra precautionary measure.

Yikes! I would urge you check with your local motorcycle shop before doing more riding. The master link you describe is a "rivet" type master link. After slipping it through the chain and flat plate I believe the dealer will explain that the ends of the pins must be peened using a special tool in order to form a rivet. Otherwise there is a risk that is will come off, and that can be catastrophic. Please watch the video below as it shows what must be done with that type master link. Ed

I installed the new cam chain today. The following pictures shows the cams installed and tightened down, a close up picture of the chain for pin count, the cam lobe positions after the crank has been turned a few times and the timing mark. Does it look like everything is good now ?

I also checked the valve clearances and have the following:

#1 Intake - .152 is largest that fits
#1 exhaust - .076 largest that fits
#2 intake - .102 largest that fits
#2 exhaust - .076 largest that fits
#3 intake - .102 largest that fits
#3 exhaust - .063 largest that fits
#4 intake - .076 largest that fits
#4 exhaust - .102 largest that fits.

Are these readings with specs ?

Cams look Much better

Lash measurements are acceptable. I would rather see them all like #4 where the exhaust is slightly looser than the intake but what you have works. .05 -.15mm is the lash range. Don't worry about anything slightly looser.

Put everything back together and bench sync'd the carbs. Before putting them back on, I decided to check the static timing, but the test light never came on. After checking, I found out that I am not getting any voltage going to the Dyna S electronic device. Whenever I remove the donut piece from where the points were, I get voltage. It seems like the donut piece is shorting out and causing the voltage to drop. Does this sound like I need a new electron ignition device ?

I dont' know where you're hooking up the light unless it's on the coil primary connection. Try this instead..

For static check on a Dyna I just use the spark plugs. Put them in the caps and lay then on the engine where you can see them spark. Turn the key on. Turn engine over with a wrench. As you approach the F mark go slow and watch the plug. If there's voltage it will spark. You usually hear it snap. Look at your timing marks for reference to correct timing.

That will verify correct Idle timing. You need to use a timing light with the engine running to check for correct advance timing.

I cant use the spark plugs because with the Dyna S connected, I don't have any voltage to the coils. I have the coil mod done and I am getting power to the Dyna S via the #87 connector on the relay. Whenever the Dyna S is installed, I lose power to the Dyna S and the coils. Something, possible the Dyna S itself is causing a loss of voltage to the coils and the Dyna S. I have it wired up the way the directions explain and checking timing according to the directions that say timing procedure. Trying to figure out why I am losing voltage when the Dyna S is slipped over the rotor ?
.

Anyone have any thoughts on this problem ?