KZ1K'S MOTOR

porchev914 wrote:

In your case, I think I would just go with a 1200cc kit. That would replace the current sleeves and any apprehension you still have about them. I kinda wish I would have gone with a 1200. It would have made running FCR35's much easier...... the black and gold Yosh ones, drooooooooooooool :woohoo:

you have a pic of them adam? they are carbs right? when you say 1200cc kit....what is that exactly and where do you get it?

I can't find a pic of the carbs, but they are dead sexy. There are a couple places you can get a 1200 kit. I deal with APE kzzone.com/ because I can drive there, but you're closer to Pit Stop.

if you look at 90% of the videos of Z1's and kz900/1000 bikes in japan they all have a unique carb set, they are kind of boxy looking and on an angle, not straight up...those are fcr's

I agree with just keeping the 903 cc motor as is, get it running and you can ride, not sure if this is your first bike, but if it is the 903 as is will be enough to make you poop yourself. I bought a box o' bike this summer and have the motor in the process of a total rebuild, I have my essentially stock kz1000 that I ride around all day no worries, and have the GPz1100 in the basement slowly, because my budget isn't huge either, becoming a groundpounder. That motor for 300 enables you to ride around while doing the things you want to do to the other motor, it's a great situation when you have no time limits to finishing your engine work...

Without reading threw all of the pages here, I don't understand why you are looking to buy a new motor since you plan on doing all of that work anyways. There could not be anything that wrong with your motor that could not be fixed during all of the mods you want to do. Punch it to 1075, Install a good set of cams with a "J" series head installed that is well ported and it will be a good hot motor.

yeah i was thinking about that. why spend 300 bucks on a motor that runs when this is my first bike? i can send my heads out almost for that $. maybe i should just freshen my motor......i dunno.

Since you have no idea about the motor you will be buying anyways. Most likely it will require everything done to it that your requires, just rebuild yours and do it right. You will not even have to pull the whole motor from your bike if you don't want to, just the top end. That way you will also have serial #s in the correct series. This will also make the bike easier to sell when you are ready and you will get more money for it. There will be a time in the near future (if it's not here already) that these bikes will be bought mostly by collectors and enthusiasts. These people will know what they are buying and will check all the info. I would also try to keep that particular bike as close to stock as possible (at least stock looking)It will bring quite a bit more money when you will be ready to sell it. Virtually every expensive "modification" you do to it will never be retrieved when you are ready to sell. Expensive porting, welded cranks, undercut transmissions, smooth bore carburetors and alike will come out of your pocket and never come back. Things like reconditioned heads, better cams, electronic ignitions, better coils and little improvements like that, you will be able to retrieve most of those costs when you sell the bike. You would do a lot better trying to restore it than "hot-rod" it. Try to keep it as close to "stock looking" as possible. You will get more looks on the road and it will cost a lot less and it will be worth more. Instead of trying to make it look like a modern "naked sport bike" no one will notice you. You would be surprised how many people would stop me and talk to me when i ride my stock 76 KZ900. A lot more than do when i ride my GPZ1150.

kz1k wrote:

i talked to chris and he said that the oil pan bolts are magnetic and any metal the block would stick to the bolt and come out when removed.

anyway here is the 900 he has for sale for $300. he is going to do a comp test for me when he gets a chance.

these are the bikes he built.....i almost wanna drop my bike off and let him go nuts, but i want to do the work on my bike for my own good and ease on my pockets.

what do you guys think?

Stock oil pan drain plug is NOT magnetic. Pull the pan and you will know what went into the engine ie: water, rust etc. You can see the gear box and part of the crank. All I'm saying is it wont hurt to investigate what you have and THEN work through your options. I think you are getting far too much conflicting advice and information here and maybe need to take a step back and make some informed decisions.

Just my opinion of course.

There is one small detail kz1k has ommited about his 1K engine. Once the cylinder was off, his roomate was pulling metal shavings out of the crankcase around the crank. He doesn't want to tackle splitting the cases yet, thats why I've been recommending a complete engine

kz1k wrote:

if the 900 cc works out...what do you recommend i do with it? honestly...i think i am going to make it a drag bike. it doesnt need to the the fastest, most exspensive motor rebuild, but what are some ideas? if i bore the 900 motor can i use my 1000cc pistons, or will i have to buy pistons? vs buying new pistons prices...are they super exspensive?

i would recomend getting the f#cking thing running before you worry about hot rodding it.
buy the damn motor all ready and build the one you remove.
then you will have a bike to ride while your building a motor.
you can then learn how to split the cases( piece of cake )and what makes the motor tick.
to sink the sleeves back in the block go buy a cookie sheet, heat your oven to 400 degrees, flip the block over on the sheet and in about 15-20 minutes it will expand and the sleeve will fall into place. then just set it flush while still warm.

you seem to be going backwards instead of forwards here man.
if the motor is only$300-$400 your ahead of the game.
i don't know anyone who will touch a head and do a good job for that much.think i'm kidding?
go to www.kzzone.com and price shit out.
yes it is costly but worth it if done right.

just get it running first.
a good rule of thumb is make sure it runs and stops before you mod it.

otakar wrote:

Since you have no idea about the motor you will be buying anyways. Most likely it will require everything done to it that your requires, just rebuild yours and do it right. You will not even have to pull the whole motor from your bike if you don't want to, just the top end. That way you will also have serial #s in the correct series. This will also make the bike easier to sell when you are ready and you will get more money for it. There will be a time in the near future (if it's not here already) that these bikes will be bought mostly by collectors and enthusiasts. These people will know what they are buying and will check all the info. I would also try to keep that particular bike as close to stock as possible (at least stock looking)It will bring quite a bit more money when you will be ready to sell it. Virtually every expensive "modification" you do to it will never be retrieved when you are ready to sell. Expensive porting, welded cranks, undercut transmissions, smooth bore carburetors and alike will come out of your pocket and never come back. Things like reconditioned heads, better cams, electronic ignitions, better coils and little improvements like that, you will be able to retrieve most of those costs when you sell the bike. You would do a lot better trying to restore it than "hot-rod" it. Try to keep it as close to "stock looking" as possible. You will get more looks on the road and it will cost a lot less and it will be worth more. Instead of trying to make it look like a modern "naked sport bike" no one will notice you. You would be surprised how many people would stop me and talk to me when i ride my stock 76 KZ900. A lot more than do when i ride my GPZ1150.

very true....thanks for the insight.

TerryK wrote:

kz1k wrote:

i talked to chris and he said that the oil pan bolts are magnetic and any metal the block would stick to the bolt and come out when removed.

anyway here is the 900 he has for sale for $300. he is going to do a comp test for me when he gets a chance.

these are the bikes he built.....i almost wanna drop my bike off and let him go nuts, but i want to do the work on my bike for my own good and ease on my pockets.

what do you guys think?

Stock oil pan drain plug is NOT magnetic. Pull the pan and you will know what went into the engine ie: water, rust etc. You can see the gear box and part of the crank. All I'm saying is it wont hurt to investigate what you have and THEN work through your options. I think you are getting far too much conflicting advice and information here and maybe need to take a step back and make some informed decisions.

Just my opinion of course.

very true also....

porchev914 wrote:

There is one small detail kz1k has ommited about his 1K engine. Once the cylinder was off, his roomate was pulling metal shavings out of the crankcase around the crank. He doesn't want to tackle splitting the cases yet, thats why I've been recommending a complete engine

im listening...i dont wanna crack the case either, but it may come down to that...:S