KZ1K'S MOTOR

PLUMMEN wrote:

TerryK wrote:

kz1k wrote:

TerryK wrote:

My question is, where did all the rust come from? With that amount of rust, a valve job, cylinder hone and new rings is the absolute minimum you should be doing.

i dont know terry. if it was water cooled i would have a guess, but its not. and why was it only 1 cylinder? say it sat in the rain, all the cylinders would have surface rust.


i did a water test to check the valves


results on intake is 2-3 leak water.

on the exzaust its not leaking yet at all....ill give it a few more minutes.

so for sure on the intake 2-3 leak.

Use a solvent like Varsol. Water has too strong a surface tension and won't show leaks well.

Once you know which ones are leaking, disassemble the head and check each valve for obvious signs of being bent. If none are bent, lap the valves. It may be that's all it needs as far as the head goes. Lap ALL the valves, reassemble the whole thing and do the solvent test again.

One thing: do you see any signs of valve to piston contact? Inspect the pistons closely for tiny crescent shaped dimples.

thats why you blow compressed air around the valve/seat,if its not sealing it will bubble in the ports

If water gets by the valve...point is proven. Let's not get carried away here....HOLY SMOKES

Seriously, if it's not a complete boat anchor, that would be the quickest, cheapest route to getting her on the road

Sandy wrote:

Motor Head wrote:

Motor Head wrote:

Have a look at this video, you would be able to attempt this with the parts you have now. But only if they are not in to bad of shape. There are other videos on the side bar and they will show you how, but with tools you don't have to do a valve job.
You need a top end gasket set, not just a base gasket.
You should be able to hone the cylinders and install new rings, but you have to follow the manual for the dimensions for the cylinder, the piston ring lands, etc.
I doubt you will be installing new valve guides at home, if you look at those videos there is a valve guide replacement followed by reaming and then re-cutting the valve seats. All that has to be done if you replace a guide.

This was page 6

Totally missed that.:huh:

What is the deal with all these videos showing to pound the valve down on the seat with lapping compound on it ?

Pay attention here DO NOT DO THAT. IF the valve is going to lap in, it's going to happen with far less effort and way less compound than any of these bullshit videos done by hacks would lead you to believe.

If ever there were posts that would do the general masses a HUGE favor by deleting them, these hack videos would the ones... :woohoo:

Patton wrote:

Motor Head wrote:

Are there any willing members that can go over and help out with this motor work?
He is trying hard but needs some guidance, it can be a bit daunting loosing your KZ virginity!....

Nads will soon send over the fat lady. :laugh:

Good Fortune!

With or without the rotor puller in hand :woohoo:

kz1k wrote:

so much for waiting for my buddy.

do i need to take the pistons out?

also i found a round like hard rubber ring the size of piston near the face where the bottom gasket is.

you can see #3 is scratched up......this motor may have never been rebuit....if it had...it needs it again.

From what I see of the top end, the entire motor should come apart for inspection. Don't throw good money into an unknown, potential pit of trouble and misfortune.

A complete gasket kit isn't a whole lot more than a top end kit. Combine that with the fact that it's no job to yank the motor out of the frame and split the cases....dam foolish not to do it.

You may be further ahead cost wise for the time being to install a known, good running engine if you can find one reasonably priced.

On the other hand if you go completely through yours, you know what you have.

If crank and trans are in good condition, you do the camchain, rollers, bore job, valve job and you're probably into the deal $2000 - $2500 with you doing the assembly and all the cleaning labor.

Figure roughly $1000 for pistons, bore, head work.

If you can get a good motor for $500.....well that's obvious isn't it

larrycavan wrote:

Patton wrote:

Motor Head wrote:

Are there any willing members that can go over and help out with this motor work?
He is trying hard but needs some guidance, it can be a bit daunting loosing your KZ virginity!....

Nads will soon send over the fat lady. :laugh:

Good Fortune!

With or without the rotor puller in hand :woohoo:

Oh snap!

Yeah man, you may think it's gonna be cheap, but this sort of stuff never is, that 500 dollar motor if it's running will get you on the road right away, no BS, and it's only 500$.

IF, and that is IF you could get away with just new rings, gaskets, lapping yourself in, a hone job, and nothing else, you may be able to ride away a little cheaper than 500, but I think your motor will for sure need more than that. Do yourself a huge favour and just get that running motor for 500, you'll have no headaches, no repairs, no waiting for parts to come in, no worries about breaking it in, no worries about messing something up and having to redo it etc.

i need to find a running motor i guess. i will keep the head and top end to rebuild as a drag motor for later on in life. i am glad i went this far into the motor. if you guys know of a a running motor deal or see one on ebay or craigslist...please let me know.....the bike was free....but i am sure as hell not ganna split the case and expect to ride this motor in the next 3 -4 years.....toatal bummer.

Motor Head wrote:

There seems to be some confusion as to which term is used for what part of the valve. The margin is important, if to thin the valve will have a tendency to burn, especially the exhaust valves. This is why there is a minimum thickness to be checked after resurfacing the valve "Face", which is the seating/ sealing surface. Also there is a minimum and maximum for this width, along with its mating surface on the seat.
Without the correct tools to do this part of the job, you really need a qualified machine shop. Like I said you may attempt to do the valve lapping at home, BUT you must still use the manual for the seat and valve dimensions, keeping in mind that the job will be a repair and not a rebuild.

kz1k wrote:

i need to find a running motor i guess. i will keep the head and top end to rebuild as a drag motor for later on in life. i am glad i went this far into the motor. if you guys know of a a running motor deal or see one on ebay or craigslist...please let me know.....the bike was free....but i am sure as hell not ganna split the case and expect to ride this motor in the next 3 -4 years.....toatal bummer.

requiem has that $500 motor in classifieds section of this site

nads.com wrote:

Motor Head wrote:

There seems to be some confusion as to which term is used for what part of the valve. The margin is important, if to thin the valve will have a tendency to burn, especially the exhaust valves. This is why there is a minimum thickness to be checked after resurfacing the valve "Face", which is the seating/ sealing surface. Also there is a minimum and maximum for this width, along with its mating surface on the seat.
Without the correct tools to do this part of the job, you really need a qualified machine shop. Like I said you may attempt to do the valve lapping at home, BUT you must still use the manual for the seat and valve dimensions, keeping in mind that the job will be a repair and not a rebuild.

The margin showing concentricity to the seat the one thats on the valve FACE/ inside the head of the valve/ a visable band that forms as the GRINDING compound CUTS into the valve FACE

Sure

PLUMMEN wrote:

kz1k wrote:

i need to find a running motor i guess. i will keep the head and top end to rebuild as a drag motor for later on in life. i am glad i went this far into the motor. if you guys know of a a running motor deal or see one on ebay or craigslist...please let me know.....the bike was free....but i am sure as hell not ganna split the case and expect to ride this motor in the next 3 -4 years.....toatal bummer.

requiem has that $500 motor in classifieds section of this site

And it looks like he is in Texas, not to far for freight.

HERE
977 Kawasaki KZ1000 motor - RUNS WELL
Running motor from a 1977 Kawasaki KZ1000.

I also am selling 1400cc motor kit, including block, pistons, crank, and extras. Visit my other ad for these parts, if you would like to build an oldschool superbike motor.

Picture: lh4.ggpht.com/_thFmq6bn0go/TJJy-mjDsEI/A...78-kz1000-engine.jpg
Condition: Used

Price: 500 OBO
Contact:
Isaac
75401 Greenville
USA

Phone: 903.224.5949

Email: noeatnosleep@yahoo.com