KZ650 Sleeper Build (KZ1000 engine transplant)

I put my adapters on the same angle. One of the long ones broke off with the vibration so I used JB Weld to anchor them to the carb body at the float bowl flange. They work great. Miller used M6 bolts drilled out to make his and they looked like SHT sticking straight out. The inside ones were too hard to get to. Used grub screws and JB Weld to plug the old holes.  
Yours look good too.
Steve

Those adapters have been sitting in my jet box for over 10 years, first time I have taken them out and screwed them into anything.

The only other carbs I have that need to use those are the GSXR flat slides I have. That is what I bought them for originally.

I was looking at my exhaust head pipes today, they are OK for something I cobbled together on the cheap. This is what I ended up with after bead blasting and two coats of VHT high heat paint.

Left side #1 and #2 :



Right side #3 and #4 :



I pulled them out to measure up and see how much it would be to duplicate in 304SS tube. I could not find a commercially made 2 into 1 collector at the size I require so I will probably have to make them. 

They are OK to get me on the road so I can tune the jetting, but in the long run a stainless set would look much nicer. Also looking at ceramic coating but would require addition fill welding and grinding, maybe the cheapest option.

I hope everyone had a great Christmas and all the best for the New Year.

I have been sick with a nasty bad cold since Dec 10 and still recovering.

Weird as the last time I was sick like this was Nov 2019 before Covid. Never caught Covid or a cold since this month. I narrowly made it thru Christmas dinner and my annual Scottish breakfast, the booze not helping at all!

Hoping to get back on this build soon, never did the stuff I had set up to do in November before I got sick as a dog.

I checked into replacing the head pipes with a 304SS set and its a non starter compared to Ceramic coating. I will start up and ride this year with the painted pipes, and see about it at the end of the season.

It'll still be there when you are on the mend, it's no fun when do don't feel up to it

wrote:

It'll still be there when you are on the mend, it's no fun when do don't feel up to it



 

Thanks.

I think I am at about 95% right now, seemed to take a turn back today but my Wife assured me I was getting better (she had same thing two weeks before me) as the same thing happened to her. Shit bad luck right at the wrong time of year. Crazy weather shifts and a lot of sick people out in public! Pretty sure I did not catch from my Woman but got a sweat on shoveling snow then had to drive to my Sons place wet. Got home a few hours later then my throat closed up
No amount of vitamin C or whiskey could stop it!

I am sure I will get back at it soon, and I put a deadline on myself of the end of April to have it started. That gives me all of May to tune it and get some miles in before my annual vintage meetup the second week of June. At the end of April we could get snow or it could be Spring like (18C) its a real crap shoot.

 

Did get a chance the other night to spend some time sanding the generator cover. Got it to 600 grit, still need to hit it with polish compound but will do that when the sprocket cover is finish sanded.

 

This one was rough so started with a file then progressed to 80 grit paper and above. I don't like a mirror finish, so not too fussy about the odd ding or scratch... if its OK from 10 feet I am happy as long as it looks "clean".

The sprocket cover is not that bashed up so will start with 220 paper, any heavy scratches that I find will be smoothed out with 80 paper. Hoping to get this one sanded tonight, then polish both.

 

Its not much progress lately but these small jobs are better done now when there is a foot of snow on the ground.

The other day I looked into replacing the cam cap bolts with studs. On the early Z1 head and cover this ended up to be a non starter.

I had a spare cam cap to lay into the valve cover.



Cam cap shoulder where bolt goes thru is 22.5mm high.



It ends up that the cam cover cavity where the cam cap sits is 29mm deep (Kawi OEM gasket is 1.70mm thick) This leaves only 8.2mm clearance for a stud sticking thru before it hits the cam cover (only room for a flange nut) So there is no extra stud length to "pull" down on the cam cap when permanently installed as planned.

I can't speak to what the situation is on the newer heads and cam covers (J/MK2)

Wookies temporary stud method seems to be a good option or the "C" clamp method for "pulling" down higher lift cams. I don't think it will be a issue with my .425" cams, and probably up to .435" cams (max for street)

So I am shelving the idea on this build and sticking with regular OEM bolts.

I have been a 650/750 guy for most of my motorcycling life, so shim under cam swaps must be over a hundred times or more. Have I stripped out a few holes, yes (mostly on my 650 drag bike) Just insert and move on, usually do them with the head on the bike, eventually they all get done. Come to think of it I don't think I have seen too many pics of heads with permanent studs installed, maybe once or twice.

I am not saying its not a good idea to put studs in permanently, I just don't think its warranted. The number of times I am going to take the cams in/out I could not say, its a crap shoot.

The most proactive thing would be to insert all the cam cap threads with steel inserts, but that takes time and setup. I don't know if I would bother with a street bike as it seems over kill. With the steel inserts you can positively pull the cams down by using OEM bolts in the cam caps.

I had no issues pulling down .480" cams on my drag bike with C clamp or even just pushing on them with my hand. I think it may get trickier with +.500" cams and higher spring rates (never been there)

I've got the original head from my Z1A waiting to be refreshed later this spring.  Plan is to replace valve seals and maybe lightly lap the valves while it's apart.  I'm also going to install inserts in the cam cap holes, because threads in about half of them are getting "loose".  Might as well do them all while I've got it set up and the tools are out.  But I'll probably still use Wookie's long stud method to install the cams.

I just got back to working on this project today. I was able to remove the rear tire from the rim and will have a new one mounted soon.



Once I get the back wheel on I still need to get a couple of engine covers mounted before I can proceed with the top end assembly. I want to be able to fire it up ASAP.

The weather is starting to turn here so I need to dig in and get this one sorted. My Daughter is due to have a baby around the second week of May so "Pop Pop" can't be messing around very much.

The annual swap meet is Fathers day weekend so I think I have plenty of time to ride and tune it before then. I have said that several times before and had to make a last minute switch up