KZ650 Sleeper Build (KZ1000 engine transplant)

I got some work done on this later in the day today.

I was able to coil up the extra cable length in behind the headlamp bucket.

 

It turned out I only had a short length of the heat shrink required to cover the RFI shielding, it was short by about 2". I cut some short sections to capture the cut ends of the covering so it would not "walk". I tucked it up and fastener it to the frame to clear the gas tank, hopefully it won't need adjusting.

 

I bent the mount bracket and tucked the O2 sensor wiring up under the tail piece without issue.

 

I put some 93 octane gas into my auxiliary tank and filled the float bowls. I will install the battery and start it tomorrow morning. I am hoping my new stator is going to take care of the charging issue and I will see if the jetting will be good enough to leave the garage and do some on road testing.
 

Got it started today with no issues, first start was without the AFR gauge hooked up because the cylinders had lube in them from Winterizing so there was a bit of oil to burn off and did not want that to mess with the O2 sensor.

I checked the voltage to the battery at 4000 RPM and only got a 13.6 Volt reading. Will need to double check FSM and maybe check it again tomorrow to make double sure. Not what I expected but I will take it out like this and get some miles on it with some short rides.

After the engine was warm I plugged in the AFR and restarted it. AFR was working but it seems I am too lean at idle with 14.8 to 15.0 running a #17.5 pilot. When I revved the engine to 4K the AFR did not swing richer. Plugs are still black after being burned clean before startup, even with new choke seals installed. I trust the AFR over my gut instinct.

The Mikuni manual suggests jetting a KZ1100 with those carbs to a #17.5 and #127.5 main, and jet needle at clip #4. Air jet #1.2 which I have installed.

Currently I have main at #127.5 and switched the pilot to a #20. I am raising the jet needle from clip #3 to #4. 

I think I overestimated the idle circuit on the lean side because of the air box and dual exhaust. I went from a #22.5 pilot to a #17.5 only because of the black plugs. 

Still working on re-clipping the jet needles. Will get back on it tomorrow.

 

You will probably need to ride it to get meaningful AFR readings with the sensor mounted where it is I would expect it to be a little slow to respond (also don’t forget the sensor needs to be around 300 degrees plus to read correctly)

Yes the positioning of the sensor is not ideal. I believe a sleeve between the head pipe and muffler may be a better way to go. 

Right now I don't have time on my side to address it so I am thinking just get it out on the road and get it good n hot then see what the numbers are. 

I richened it up and that won't hurt, will see tomorrow if its a step in the right direction.