KZ650 Sleeper Build (KZ1000 engine transplant)

That caught my eye too. While low-profile, would be a bear to remove if the SS does what SS does threaded into aluminum. No where to grab the screw, ouch!! I see also used on the intake manifolds. 

wrote:

That caught my eye too. While low-profile, would be a bear to remove if the SS does what SS does threaded into aluminum. No where to grab the screw, ouch!! I see also used on the intake manifolds. 
 

I use liberal amounts of anti seize paste on all fasteners, the button heads use a smaller key so less chance of stripping when using my left hand as a torque wrench. The bolts on the manifolds are a low head cap screw.

sf4t7 wrote:

Button head screws instead of socket head screws for your cover is a different look.      

Just what I have planned  to do.Guess I move too slowly.......

Yeah, the smaller tool size can offset the non-calibrated wrist torque wrench!  

I use to work as a bicycle mechanic and the older guy there was dead set against torque wrenches. He showed me the left hand method and to develop a "feel", luckily I never stripped a thread while working there.

Carbon parts were just coming to market then (2007-2009) so when they arrived the torque wrench was used more often. He was still there when I left so I sometimes wonder how he made out.

I still wrench on bicycles for myself and friends if there is enough beer offered

I was able to get back on this today after I cut my grass, stinking hot and humid here!

I had to remove the crank case catch can that was strapped under the frame back bone tube. This gave me room to push the cam cover up.

 

This is the extent that the cam cover could lift up, locked in there by the very top of the center idler bracket.

 

 

No amount of wiggling, jiggling, or bashing is going to get it up and over that bracket. My only recourse was to remove the idler so I put the crank on the "T" mark 1&4 just to be on the safe side before I removed it. As long as the crank does not move I should be OK.

I suspended the cam cover with a small bungee cord and proceeded to remove the top idler.

 

I removed the bolt and cushion assembly one side at a time being careful not to drop anything into the oil pan.

 

Once removed the cam cover came out to the side as normal, then I also removed the gasket so I can work on the cam end plugs. So now I have a procedure to get that cover off, its not that much extra work to take the center idler on and off. It would be easier if I fabricated billet shim blocks for the idler bracket. It not a emergency at this point and probably something I can do over the Winter.

 

It was too hot to continue so I packed it in for another day.
 

Yeah there's a little more room in the Z1 frame.  There is one position where the cover is in the right spot to tap several times and scrape it under the frame tube.  You don't have close to that amount of space.  But your solution is still less trouble than removing those carbs!

Since the center idler is off I am going to measure up the spacer blocks and get myself a drawing done of those parts to machine so I can replace the stock units with some APE inspired blocks.

I'd be interested in a set of those solid blocks when you get to them next winter.  I re used the old rubber ones and steel washer plates when I upgraded to the liska idler pulleys last winter.  If you want to make some to sell, let us know what you come up with for a price per set.  I'm sure there are several others here with Z1's or KZ1000's who would also be interested...

I went through the same problem recently and solved it by shortening the height of the bracket. 

Is there any reason why you can't replace the lower damper with a piece cut from some 2mm nitrile sheet (or something similar) then shorten the sleeves and bolts accordingly ? I suspect you may need to add 1 to the pin count on the chain between the sprockets then dial in with your slotted gears (I suspect it would not be feasible without slotted sprockets)



 

Vinsky wrote:

I went through the same problem recently and solved it by shortening the height of the bracket. 

 

It looks like you did a "chop top" on it to lower it by about 1/8", I could lower mine by making the lower shim blocks thinner than the top blocks.

What was your issue that you had to do that mod?