KZ650 Sleeper Build (KZ1000 engine transplant)

I met up with Rob (rstnick) and John (JR) from the forum at the swap meet on Saturday. Both of them local boys, it was nice to have a short chat and glad they made it out.

Looked thru vendor stalls on Friday and came away with a KZ750 shaft drive FSM and a mint KZ650 Chilton manual to replace my filthy dog eared unit. On Saturday after breakfast I found some other parts, some Accel yellow coils and a SH775 regulator all for rock bottom pricing. Got given a few misc metric open end wrenches and on Saturday night someone offered some free $10 Sunday breakfast tickets because they had to leave unexpectedly.

Overall had a great time with some great people.

I went to a local automotive speed shop and the bulk wire they had did not match what I needed, but they did have this Universal repair kit which is the exact wire that I have! 

 

It does have some redundant ends included, but they will go in my "plug wire" spares box The wire is 54" long so there will be plenty left if I ever have one break on me.

Can't really start working on this as my Touring bike is still in the garage and needs to be drained of fuel then sent back to into storage to free up some room.
 

I have been working on this bike sporadically as its stinking hot in the garage. Did start on milling a thicker billet shim block to drop the RH muffler another 1/2" but its not completed.

Today I had some time to swap out the pilot jets on the #1 and 2 carbs. No issues dropping the bowls on those two without disturbing anything, and went pretty quick. The other side is going to be a bit harder.

 

I decided to swap the #25's for #20's as #17.5's seemed too small to me for what the engine build is.

I did notice something I need to do... the middle bottom motor mount holes are unused and you can see them, sort of stick out like a sore thumb. I decided I am going to fabricate some alloy cover plugs on my lathe.

 

 
 

I'd use them 

I fabricated these mount rails and spacers to move the coils forward by 1" and down by 1/2" to eliminate the spark plug wires being squished up against the cam cover.

 

I will get them back on once I fix the 2 end plug leaks with some new Black RTV.
 

Finished this thicker billet shim block to drop and suck in the RH muffler today.

 

Milling the pocket was time consuming but its better now that its one solid piece, even has a bit more thread engagement for the mount bolt.
 

Nice work as always 

Wookie58 wrote:

Nice work as always 

Thanks.

Hard to keep going on it now that good weather is here and lots of other obligations are getting in the way.

I got these cover plugs finished today, light press fit. I think it looks a bit better.

 

   

Now I won't have to explain those holes if anybody looks at it. 

I will need to pull the bike out soon to lower both sides of the exhaust and finish replacing the pilot jets for #3 and #4.

Once I lower the exhaust I am going to have to adjust the height of the center stand limit as the stand will foul on the LH muffler.

I am also working on milling a lift block that I can slip under the center stand and lift the bike up with a small bottle jack. The other scissor lift I have fouls on the low exhaust setup. Going to finish this lift block before moving the bike. 

I just received a new AGM battery so hopefully that will help with the starting.
 

Those two mounts have a habit of getting loose which tells me the engine walks around in the frame. With the extra power is why I suggest you keep them. 

Stinking Hot and Humid is my playground, hate it. You must be North of the equator too. I would of thought i was acclimated to it considering all those years of construction, ain't so. Can't paint, humidity makes black grey-out, uggg. Glad i can just retire to the pool when all else fails, ha. Great job with the details Injected!! 

SWest post=914489 userid=43940Those two mounts have a habit of getting loose which tells me the engine walks around in the frame. With the extra power is why I suggest you keep them. 

From what I have been told the most important engine mounts are the upper and lower rear mounts, especially those closest to the front sprocket. The 1100's don't use those lower middle mounts and are making more power than the original Z1 design.

I replaced the flimsy stock steel upper rear mounts with custom made double the thickness 1020 steel bar stock mounts. I also enlarged and gusseted the lower mount tab by the front sprocket. Actually now that I think back, I increased the thickness of every engine mount point!

The weakest link is the tiny 120 rear tire, and since I am not going to drag race this bike I am pretty sure it will be just fine with me not using those lower middle engine mounts.