KZ650 Sleeper Build (KZ1000 engine transplant)

Vinsky wrote:

I like your ingenuity. I added a vibratory motor to the outside of the cabinet near the bottom. It stopped the clogging and gives a constant flow of media now.
 

That's a good tip, I will try that.

I said clumping, but its more like a slugging action where sections will let go all of a sudden rather than a steady flow of media. This causes spurting at the nozzle tip so it takes a long time to dial in to get good blasting action.

I did not even get to the point of dialing it in because of my tip size. I guess if we could use more pressure (110-120PSI) it may have worked, but his compressor would only give 90 to the cabinet. His compressor is on the small size (10 CFM with a 60 gal tank) but it seemed to cut OK on his portable tank setup.

I am going to purchase some 20-30 grit beads as that's all I could find locally, that may help especially on the head inside where the spark plugs are.
 

I just started making the steel nozzle inserts but nothing to show currently.

I did get a tiny vibratory electric motor to install on the media transfer tube.



I made up a plastic mount for it and have the motor zip tied to it. I tested it with a 1.5V battery and it seems to work OK, but I did order a 3V transformer to run it off 120V but it won't be here for a couple of weeks.

Hoping to get back on this soon. Summer does not seem to be a great time to get motorcycle projects accomplished.

Got out on the lathe and finished my first nozzle insert. 1/2" OD 1018 steel, first one was the smallest and it has a 5/64" drilled orifice.

 Tricky getting the angled end done first. Cut a groove on the tip end so it can be held in place with a wire wrap (may opt for finer wire yet) May also go out and buy some small retaining rings, but I believe they might only work on 2 of the larger nozzles.

 Stock pink ceramic nozzle is now a holder.



 Have 3 more to make but its way too hot out there to continue today even with my big fan on. Now that I know the setup the others will be quicker.
    

Going true "sleeper" on this build by grinding off the "1.015L" size designation. My boring guy did the same on his 1197cc Z1. Realistically its a mongrel build at best, and cheeky when using "650" side covers.
   Now I can tape the barrel up before it gets bead blasted.
 

 

Finally got to test the blast cabinet and got some OK results on my parts.







Missed a few spots on the head and barrel so its not "perfect", but I still need to completely run thru those parts with some steel wool and paint stripper to minimize any dark spots I missed.

Overall its not too bad but had to resort to the 20-30 grit as the 60-80 was not cutting too well at all. 60-80 is probably perfect for carb bodies. Since I had to use the courser grit its a bit more rough of a finish so I will try to smooth it out some with the steel wool.

Next time I will look around for some 40-50 grit as that is probably about perfect to get black paint off and still give a somewhat smooth finish.
The head pipes turned out OK, that is just one coat of VHT to stop flash rust. 
Overall I am happy enough with the results and will work towards getting the engine built in the upcoming months.
 

Injected wrote:

Got out on the lathe and finished my first nozzle insert. 1/2" OD 1018 steel, first one was the smallest and it has a 5/64" drilled orifice.

 Tricky getting the angled end done first. Cut a groove on the tip end so it can be held in place with a wire wrap (may opt for finer wire yet) May also go out and buy some small retaining rings, but I believe they might only work on 2 of the larger nozzles.

 Stock pink ceramic nozzle is now a holder.

 Have 3 more to make but its way too hot out there to continue today even with my big fan on. Now that I know the setup the others will be quicker.
    


I'm going to try making some nozzle inserts on the lathe, it's a great idea. Right now I have to buy a variety 5 pack just to get the two I can actually use.
 

With the 20-30 grit media I found a .094" nozzle plugged easily but a .125" worked great, pressure at the cabinet regulator was 80 PSI and the blasting went quick.

I feel that the compressor used might have been on the small side as I found out it was only rated for 10CFM @ 90 PSI with a 60 Gal tank.

I was able to wash the parts with Simple Green and scrub with a green Scotch Brite, that seemed to knock it a bit smoother.
 

Looking to move forward with this project, bought a new rear tire/tube and need to take it to be installed at my local dealership.

Once I have the rear wheel installed I will feel more at easy in assembling the top end. I am hoping I can at least fire it up before the weather turns cold here. Even if I can get it idling in the garage that will be enough till the Spring.
 

Your weather must change quick up there. Down here the good riding weather will start in a month and last till March. Already it's getting cooler and the snow birds will be floking here for the winter. No matter they're easy to get around. 

SWest wrote:

Your weather must change quick up there. Down here the good riding weather will start in a month and last till March. Already it's getting cooler and the snow birds will be floking here for the winter. No matter they're easy to get around. 

 

It can snow here in late October but that is rare, usually we can get snow in Nov-Dec for sure and it will snow thru usually into March and sometimes late April but that's also rare. So the bikes are away for 4-5 months at least. They use a lot of sand on the roads here over the Winter months so it takes a while for it to get forced off the roads in Spring. Usually bikes are out in full force by May.

We get a lot of time over Winter to work on our bikes here.
 

Trying to get back on this but still busy with "summer" stuff...

Did get the GPZ1100 manifolds installed on the head, sealed up with grey gasket maker.



The manifolds were port matched by my cylinder head guy.

I did have to open up the I.D.s on these manifolds as they were really tight on the VM33 smooth bore spigots. The O.D.s on the carbs measured 1.660" whereas the manifolds were 1.560" so I ground off the excess on my lathe using my Dremel tool. After the manifolds were ground they did fit much better which will help when installing the carbs.

I did compare those carbs to a set of RS34's I have and the flat slide O.D.s measured 1.560".

The next step is to set up the head with the valves and some soft springs to figure out what size shims are required. Once that is done I can fully assemble the head and set it aside.