TOPIC:

Just wiggling the valves back and forth in the head will give you a qualitative estimate of the wear.

A small tip when you are blowing out the oil passages and holes in the engine, put the nozzle of your air gun at an angle and blow over the tops of the holes up close, this creates a vacuum and sucks grit out, I was shown this method by an engine builder/mechanical engineer friend, I was surprised by just how much small stuff came out, I could feel it on my face....

A few updates
My bore gauges came and my guides measure out fine.
I painted the cylinders, I'm thinking of sealing the edges with a clear coat to help reduce the chance of corrosion on the raw metal. Here on Maui that would be the first place to corrode.
The edges of the fins are not finished very well, pretty rough casting, I cleaned them up some but Kawasaki didn't put any time into them.

I'm practicing assembling the cases and i can't figure out how to get the kick starter clocked right so the spring will be in the relief slot for it. The videos I've found don't address this, I'm thinking it's simple and I'm just missing something. The manual isn't much help so far.
 

There's index marks on the kick shaft and on the ratchet that must be aligned for the pawl & spring to locate correctly.  Page 47 of the White Manual.  Are the  index marks aligned?

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Ditto what Jim said.  Additionally, and it may just be the angle of the photo but the tab on piece bolted to your case looks to be bent at a right angle, but it should be angled slightly towards the ratchet as shown in the photo below.  The ratchet should slide along the tab to open up when the kicker isn't in use.

Thank you all
i feel dumb, I should never start a new phase late in the day, tired brain. 
my splines are clocked correctly. 
I just realized the spring and spacer go in after cases are assembled. 
so simple 
duh
 

The head has valves back in it now. It went smoothly if a little fiddly. I stacked it up just to have a look. I realized the valve cover looks to be symmetrical, no front or back as far as I can see. I’m studying John Brookes book and it doesn’t indicate a back and front. I’ll check some more to be sure. 

Onward I go. Chrome stuff going to SoCal tomorrow.
just started lacing rims.

I've always assumed the valve cover is symmetrical.  

What paint did you use?

Choice is limited here and shipping paint here is almost impossible.
I used Duplicolor engine paint low gloss black, seems to be nice paint.
The bare edges of the fins have Duplicolor engine clear. Very tedious to do.

Liking it… !!!

I'm putting the front wheel together and I'm getting close. I'm down to about .070" hop near the weld, side to side is nearly spot on. More to do.
I wonder about spoke torque, Buchanan says 80 inch pounds which seems high, they are getting pretty tight sounding and feeling at 45 inch pounds. I forget what I went for on my K3 750 Honda using the same spokes and rim style.
Anyone have any suggestions?

I noticed that I didn't get the axle on the bearings in the photo