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Bit of a slowdown here waiting on some parts so I can stand the frame up and start putting the engine in. Catching up on some honeydo's. I need tubes and some other odds and ends. The chrome is not back yet. My gauges are on the way back form CB750 Faces (Marcel).

Are you going to install the engine before putting the barrels and head in place?  Up until recently I had never done an engine rebuild outside the frame, but I'm in the midst of a KZ650 engine rebuild and am doing it out of the frame.  I found it much easier to install the barrels.  I just kept wiggling the barrels until they slipped completely over the rings.  I have the proper tool for a 900 but not for a 650.  

My plan for installing the engine in the frame is to put the engine on its side and slip the frame over it.

How concerned about having all nuts and bolts correct. If you are the Allen head cap bolt you have affixing the oil pressure switch housing ar wrong. All bikes built before March of 1974 used a cross head pan head bolt. Factory number 220B0635.

 

Also along the same thought. If you replaced the handle bar clamp bolts, the upper triple clamp, and the clamp bolt on the steering stem all need to have 13mm heads. Most if not all replacement are 12mm heads.  I found NOS at Johnny’s Vintage in Ohio Us.

Fasteners have been a real issue, hardly any were correct and I’ve had to decide how to proceed. The PO had a mix and match assortment on it, hardly a single original fastener save for things like the swing arm, axles and a few others. I’m having to replace my caliper fasteners due to some damage to them. All this has made for an expensive project. Since I’m here on Maui I’ve decided that easy to change fasteners will be stainless such as those you mention. Corrosion is practically an overnight thing here and if I’m going to ride this I would like to not fight it so much, hence the stainless spokes and nipples. Zinc spokes go very quickly here. So no, the bike won’t be purely correct. 
I will install the lower part of the engine and then assemble the top end. My K3 750 Honda I did the frame lowered over the engine method, it worked well. I’m trying this two step method on the Z1 because it seems pretty straightforward. I hope I’m right.
I do have a mystery. I was cleaning up and I found the round rubber or plastic part in the pictures. It looks like I may have left something out of the carbs but I’m not finding any parts that look like it. I thought it was Collar B 16073-003 but images don’t really match. Anyone have any thoughts? I may just take the carbs apart and look.

John Brookes book item 38 on page 106. Appears to be the part, but in the parts description says it’s a felt seal…? 

Appears in the breakdown in the FSM. Item #66.  I can’t find a part number for either the oil seal or the felt.

I’ll go looking into the carbs. I must have made a mistake along the way.

The carbs don't have a part that looks like that. The #66 is a nylon part. I also looked at the rack shaft and it doesn't have something like that either. It will remain a mystery as I go through the rest of the bike. I'll have to keep looking for a possible spot for it. I suppose it may not be a Z1 part at all but I found it around where I've been working on it. Does not fit the clutch shaft.

Are those early ribless carbs?  If so, John's book may not include them.  I know on my carbs (Z1B) it's a piece of felt to seal the hole on the side of the carb where the arm ties into the synch mechanism.  John's book has a note that says the felt never had a part number, and he describes how to make it.  But if this bike's carbs were early they may have used a rubber or plastic seal.  There should be four of them...one on each arm of the synch mechanism.

Yes, ribless. They have four nylon looking seals, two per carb. This agrees with my Z1 parts book which has so far been correct for the bike.

I've never had a set of ribless carbs so I don't know for sure if those are the same as the felt piece.  Slmjim might know. 

I'm confused....You say you have four of them...one per carb?