Trying to get the bike to idle consistently. Seems I'm constantly readjusting the idle knob under the carbs and fiddling with the choke. Wants to idle with different settings after cold start and when at a stop. For instance, after idling after cold start at 1100rpm, I drive for a bit and when I stop she's idling at 1800rpm or more. Any suggestions?
Sorry Tvag06 but in your YouTube Video i can´t see any vaccum sync level on your bottle and tube gauge.
The engine sounds like a KZ750 twin @ idle and not really sync correct like 750 four cyl..
Why do you didn´t use the sync clocks and the brass restrictors you had?
the guages were still oscillating too much with the brass to be useful for me. The bottles were far easier to monitor the adjustments I was making. They are as close to balanced I could get after about an hour.
Catastrophe is not desired. The nut was tight with a pin in it but not torqued to 100lbs. I've ventured out about 2 miles in town. Want to be sure she's 100% before I have all my trust in her. Ride, inspect... Ride, inspect... Ride, inspect...
SWest wrote: You may still need wheel bearings.
Thanks Steve. I'll keep an eye on it but I think it was the castle bolt. I just didn't tighten it down enough, not hardly.
Back to my carbs and the idling. I've got my air mixture screws turned out 2 turns and have not yet covered them with a welch cap. Right now I simply placed some of that poster putty over them to keep it sealed. Will adjusting the screws more than 2 turns provide a more rich fuel mix? Can this assist me in maintaining a steady idle at cold start and when warm? At what increments should I turn them out when testing? 1/4 turn? 1/2 turn?
Basic process is to warm up the engine and then adjust the pilot screws until you achieve the highest idle speed. Should be in the range of 2.5 turns open from lightly seated. If there isn't a whole lot of idle speed change with turning out the screws target 2.5 turns open. And yes, more open is richer.
Nessism wrote: Basic process is to warm up the engine and then adjust the pilot screws until you achieve the highest idle speed. Should be in the range of 2.5 turns open from lightly seated. If there isn't a whole lot of idle speed change with turning out the screws target 2.5 turns open. And yes, more open is richer.
Great thanks. I'm at 2 turns out currently. When I achieve optimal performance, what do I plug the cavity with? Please don't say metal welch cap. There must be something less perminent right??