@%$*&%

im going to check the voltage comming from my coil wire boots while cranking the bike...........should i get a reading?

ok to check my coils......i have power going into them. if i take a test light to my spark plug boots(the inside metal) and crank the bike over the light does not light up. does that mean my coils are bad?

stick a screwdriver in the plugwire boot in the end of wire,holding on to the plastic part of handle hold the steel part of screwdriver about a 1/4" off a metal part of motor and crank the motor over.
any spark?

PLUMMEN wrote:

stick a screwdriver in the plugwire boot in the end of wire,holding on to the plastic part of handle hold the steel part of screwdriver about a 1/4" off a metal part of motor and crank the motor over.
any spark?

i tried it...no spark.

i did a ohms resistance test on the coils. on the coil power wires it jumps up then reads 000 on both coils. them when i test 1 and 4 plug wires which is controled by 1 coil it jumps up to 11.64 then goes to 1. whatever thats telling me.

PLUMMEN wrote:

thats what it sounds like,worry about the starting problem first then deal with charging system

really i could give 2 shitz about the charging system unless it has some tie with spark.....once it starts, its gone.

I READ THIS AND TRIED TO MEASURE THE 2 WHITE WIRES WITH RED AND BLACK TRACERS AND DID NOT GET A READING.....DID I DO IT WRONG?



Ok... let's try to narrow down the field of possible problems. First thing: by "no" spark, do you mean that all four plugs are not being fired? If 2 plugs spark, but not all 4, then the coil that feeds the two "non-sparking" plugs is prolly bad. If all four plugs are sparkless then please read on... Your bike has two ignition coils, each coil has a Red/white wire that provides 12v when the key is turned on. Yes, there will also be power on the other wires coming from the coils... that is normal, and the fact that you have power at the coils rules out the run switch being faulty. As for the pulse generator, well... the only way to test it is by unhooking the two wires at the ignitor box (they are the two wires that are white, one has a red tracer, the other a black tracer). Use an ohm meter to check the resistance of the pulser. It should be 80 - 120 ohms. Keep in mind that an open (infinite resistance) or a short (zero resistance) are an immediate cause for replacement. But you said you checked the pulser coil. This leaves four things that could be the trouble. The ignitor box, the sidestand switch, the clutch switch or the ignition/safety relay. The clutch switch and the sidestand switch are easy to check using an ohm meter. If these two switches are working then they can be ruled out. There is no reasonable way to check the ignitor box other than replacement (very expensive, especially if it doesn't solve the problem). To check the ignition/safety relay, you will need to get a Clymer manual for your year and make bike, and it will guide you to troubleshooting that unit. To be honest Bryan, the ignitor box is rarely to blame, the usual culprit is typically the sidestand or clutch switch, followed by that relay box...
I hope this info helps you get your spark back and your bike running!! Good luck my friend!!

Have you tried to push start it by chance. The kick stand will be up, the clutch will be pulled in etc. Turn the key on and push it, see if you get any kind of response or sounds.

no i have not tried that yet. reason being it has not been running for a couple monthes. it seemed like a lot of work here at sea level. i figures if she is ganna spark, she should do it both ways. i could pull it i sopose and try to jump start it that way. or push my fat ass roomate, or vise versa. since the tank seat and half of the body is off it seems easier to keep it off intil i get spark. well see.

well i pulled in the clutch, kicked the bike stand up, and tested my coils. i have hot going in, but where the spark plug goes into the coil wires i tested for voltage while cranking the bike......no voltage. faulty coils? both of them?

If you have power going in try putting a spark plug on the lead and lay it on the motor to check for spark.

The trouble shooting with a meter can be confusing if you are trying to learn the meter and the bike at the same time.
I still dont have the meter mastered because it is confusing to me. Sometimes I will check a component and find the numbers are nowhere near where they should be but the part will work. That lets me know I am weak in the electrical end of it, but I manage somehow

Kawickrice wrote:

If you have power going in try putting a spark plug on the lead and lay it on the motor to check for spark.

The trouble shooting with a meter can be confusing if you are trying to learn the meter and the bike at the same time.
I still dont have the meter mastered because it is confusing to me. Sometimes I will check a component and find the numbers are nowhere near where they should be but the part will work. That lets me know I am weak in the electrical end of it, but I manage somehow

i have been using your method stated above from the get go. lay plug on motor and cranking bike. i about to take a baseball bat to this muther fucker!

Time to hit a fatty and regroup.