TOPIC:

john8 wrote:

If I wanted to still keep the start kill switch could I put the yellow/red to brown and red from the coils and black to the black from the starter solenoid?

Yes, that would be like the first diagram I posted.
The new key switch would then only use the batt and ign connections, and simply be an on-off switch.

ok...cool. Thank's.

For Jigen. 1980 KZ750 G1 twin... kick only.


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EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1980 Kawasaki Kz750G1 twin for Jigen
Kz750G Kz750 G1 Kz 750 G 750G1 750G

When I can afford it, what is the best ignition that I can buy for my kz? Thank's.

If the motor is basically stock, then the factory electronic ignition is probably all it would need. New coils would be good.

There are many options for upgrades. Dyna 2000, MSD, and probably others, even a factory version with electronic advance would be nice.

In my opinion, the Dyna S would be a down grade from the factory one your bike came with. Not that it's bad, but the factory one is a little more sophisticated and more efficient.

I figure I should ask as many questions aas I can before you start to charge me. Is there a switch I can remove that will allow me to start the engine without pulling the clutch in. On my bike you have to pull the clutch in even when it is in nutral. Thank's

john8 wrote:

I figure I should ask as many questions aas I can before you start to charge me. Is there a switch I can remove that will allow me to start the engine without pulling the clutch in. On my bike you have to pull the clutch in even when it is in nutral. Thank's

Yes, the switch is actually on the clutch lever itself. Just connect the two wires together permanently. I usually leave that off on bare-bones diagrams.

I wanted to show you what I am working on.
I know some people don't like the bobber style look on these bikes, but I do. I made struts for it because I do not know if I want to put springs back on it or not. I made a pan seat, fender, sissy bar and forward controls out of scrap metal. I want to put a smaller tank on it, just not sure how small. Lot's more to do on her. I also have another kz1000 that I am going to rebuild that I want to bring back aas close to original as possible.

Nice project. I like parts made from scratch myself, so that's a +1. I agree on the tank too, definitely needs to go smaller.

I hope the crutches weren't anythjing major.

Third acl replacement and torn minicus this last time. Dec 6th was the last one, hopefully. I just finished the wiring. I am stuck on one part though, I'm sure it is right in front of my face. Ok.... Let's see if i can explain this. I want to use the ignition for on only and a kill/start switch that I got off of a kz440. I have the wires set up the way you made the second diagram. Can I put the yellow/red to the red from the coils and a split from the yellow/red start/kill button to the brown and black to black from start/kill to the black from ignition. Wow!!!I just read that back to myself,makes no sense to me. I want to add the start/kill into the second diagram and not screw anything up. If I did not give you a headache, please help me with this little dilemma. Thank's.

One area that Kawasaki changed the wire colors a lot was in the kill/start switch area. Different models use different colors, so it can get confusing. I could only find the colors for a 1981 KZ440 U.S. model. If it's a different year or from a different area, it may be different.

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And as always, make sure to tape off the connections on that key switch.
I kept telling my buddy the same thing and he never did. His keys would dangle and short out on the switch posts. He kept wondering why the bike would stall and blow the main fuse, until I pointed it out.