TOPIC:

Looks like you have most of it now.

chanman17 wrote:

So, the Yel/Red wire from the R/R goes to one 20 Amp fuse (#1 fuse). That fuse goes to another fuse (#2 fuse) that goes to the Key Switch?

Yes, and the battery is connected to the junction between the two fuses. You can use the battery connection at the starter colenoid as that junction point.

chanman17 wrote:

Key Switch: The #2 fuse and the hot 12v wire connect to the Key Switch? Based on your earlier post I think this is correct.

Yes.

chanman17 wrote:

Sol Coil: The Blk/Yel goes to ground and the Black goes to the Starter button?

Yes.

chanman17 wrote:

The points have 3 wires. Two go to the coils (1 per coil). Where does the 3rd wire go? It's Blue/Red.

The blue/red wire is from the oil pressure sender which is under the timing plate. That wire would have gone to the oil pressure light. You can leave it unconnected.

chanman17 wrote:

The two Yel/Red wires coming from the coils (1 Yel/Red per coil) connect together then they go to the hot 12v wire?

Yes.

chanman17 wrote:

What is a brake light switch?

There are two. Either one can make the brake light come on.
One switch is connected to the foot brake lever, and there may be one on the front brake lever, or it could be a brake-line pressure switch. The brake line pressure switch (if your bike is like that) will be mounted to the brake line splitter mounted under the headlight.

chanman17 wrote:

I think I'm starting to understand now. There is one "hot" wire and one ground wire each running through the bike. Your diagram shows which component connects to each wire, 12v (hot) and/or Ground. Thanks again!

Right. That "hot" wire is actually called a "switched hot" wire because it's only hot when the key switch is on. Only the two fuses, the battery, and the battery wire to the starter solenoid are hot all the time.

So, the Yel/Red wire from the R/R goes to one 20 Amp fuse (#1 fuse). That fuse goes to another fuse (#2 fuse) that goes to the Key Switch?Yes, and the battery is connected to the junction between the two fuses. You can use the battery connection at the starter colenoid as that junction point.

Right now I have the + battery connection going to the Starter Solenoid. Can you describe exactly how this junction works using the battery connection at the starter solenoid. I don't understand the "junction" concept.

Key Switch: The #2 fuse and the hot 12v wire connect to the Key Switch? Based on your earlier post I think this is correct.Yes.

What I would actually like to do is get rid of the starter button all together and just use an ignition switch to start. I'm imagining a switch that has 3 functions: On, off, and start. Does that exist? The "start" position would act as the starter button. Can I do that?

The two Yel/Red wires coming from the coils (1 Yel/Red per coil) connect together then they go to the hot 12v wire?

Regarding my coils:

Each coil has two wires. One of the wires, not the Yel/Red (#1), has a two-way adapter on the end of it (see #2 in the photo). Each coil has the same adapter.

This #2 wire goes to the points. But why does it have the two way adapter? It may be a silly question because this bike was stock wired and I've taken it all apart now. But if the wire goes directly to the coil I'm not sure why this two way adapter is there.

A junction is just any place where two or more wres are connected together. You can make one by soldering two wires together, or you can use connectors etc.

In the case of the starter solenoid, you have a big bolt to put on as many ring connectors as can fit, so this is often a good place to make two or three wires come together.

In the diagram, you have two fuses and the battery+ that could go to that single bolt. Or if you wanted, you could connect the two fuse holders together by soldering their wires and then solder a third at that point and run that wire to the starter solenoid (where the battery+ is connected).

here is the fuse holder I suggest

.

I really can't say why the green wire has a double bullet connector, but it's possible Kawasaki thought an electronic tachometer would be connected there.

But that double connector is the type of thing you can generally use to connect two wires to a third wire.

As far as the starter button:
You could get a generic key switch for a car. Then the bike would start just like a car. If you get one of those (I've seen and used the ones from most automotive parts stores) I could change the diagram accordingly.

The only danger with that is you don't have both hands on the bars when you hit the starter. If you leave it in gear, it could be a little embarassing if it lurches forward.

I've used these, but they are not the best made switches. They'll work but they are cheap.

loudhvx wrote:

A junction is just any place where two or more wres are connected together. You can make one by soldering two wires together, or you can use connectors etc.

In the case of the starter solenoid, you have a big bolt to put on as many ring connectors as can fit, so this is often a good place to make two or three wires come together.

In the diagram, you have two fuses and the battery+ that could go to that single bolt. Or if you wanted, you could connect the two fuse holders together by soldering their wires and then solder a third at that point and run that wire to the starter solenoid (where the battery+ is connected).

here is the fuse holder I suggest

.

Did I capture your suggestion right? Where does the other end of Fuse #2 connect?

Yes, you got it.

Fuse 2 goes to the ignition switch.

1980 KZ650 KZ650E1 bare bones for Chanman17



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EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1980 Kawasaki Kz650E1 for Chanman17
Kz650E Kz650 E1 Kz 650 E 650E1 650E

I picked up the ignition switch and two fuses. Bench tested them and I know what's going on. Thanks for getting me this far.

The switch has 3 connecting points: battery, ignition, accessory.

I picked up a kill switch. So, The coils go to kill then the kill goes to the ignition nut on the key switch. Right?

Then the fuse coming from the solenoid goes to the battery nut on the key switch. Yeah?

Last question for ignition system...i think

The two wires from the solenoid. I know the black goes to ground, but what about the other one? Originally you said it went to the starter button. So now would it go to the key switch via the fuse via the solenoid?

Thanks again.

If the ignition switch you bought doesn't have a momentary start position, you really shouldn't use it for the starter. You'll have to use a separate start button.

Because it has an accessory position, though, you could use it as a light switch. One position would be ignition only, and the other would have ignition with lights.

I thought you weren't going to use a kill switch. If you have the kill switch, then you would also have the starter button on the same control group. (Actually, it's part of the throttle assembly if you using the stock one.)

The earlier drawing shows the kill switch.

The switch has a momentary start position.

OK, I was thinking I should hook my headlight and tail light to the accessory nut on the ignition switch.

What do you think of a kill switch? I'm on the fence.

So, the alterator has 3 wires coming from it: 2 yellow and 1 green/red. The 2 yellow go to the R/R. But I can't find in any diagram where the green/red wire goes. The diagrams don't even show its existence. It's dumping rain here in San Diego so today is a good day to get this going in the garage.

That green/red is probably the neutral switch wire. It goes form the neutral switch under the cover up to the neutral light. You can just leave it unconnected.

I'm on the fence about kill switches too. Two of my bikes don't have it, but another does. Every now and then I like to coast in down the alley so as to not wake up my neighbors at 3am. I have to reach over to the key to kill the motor, then turn it back on to have lights, but i have to wait for the motor to stop before I can turn it back on. It forces me to have to ride one handed over bumps for a couple seconds with no way to use the front brakes. A kill switch would be convenient in those cases. But kill switches are often one of the first to go bad, so...

If your key switch has a momentary start position, then it's a four position switch? Off, Accessory, ignition, and start?
If so, then you should have 4 lugs on the switch, correct. Are they each labeled?