TOPIC:

You're right, the switch does have 4 connection points. The 4th, the momentary start position, wasn't labeled, so I dismissed it. I wired it up and everything turns over and sparks as expected! Thanks again!

However it's not starting. I'm nearly certain it's the points. Learning how to adjust them seems to be an art.

1980 KZ750 KZ750E1 bare bones chop for Sdharger

EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1980 Kawasaki Kz750E1 for sdharger
Kz750E Kz750 E1 Kz 750 E 750E1 750E

1980 KZ750 KZ750E1 bare bones for Mart13.

This one is almost the same as the one for sdharger, but I made a few minor changes.

EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1980 Kawasaki Kz750E1 for Mart13
Kz750E Kz750 E1 Kz 750 E 750E1 750E

loudhvx wrote:

1980 KZ750 E1 for Mart13.

This one is almost the same as the one for sdharger, but I made a few minor changes.

cheers mate , now i can sort my bike out , if you get to the UK the first pint's on me

This was originally for Nelson, but maybe nkymain485 can use it too.

1982 KZ550 bare bones for Nelson8708 Nelson_8708

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EDIT 1/6/2019
reposting this from earlier

how bout a bare bones for a 79 750 twin with 3 yellow stator wires and no killswitch?

machsp33d wrote:

how bout a bare bones for a 79 750 twin with 3 yellow stator wires and no killswitch?

Are you sure you have three yellow stator wires? According to the diagrams here on Kzrider, the 78 750 B3, 79 750 B4, and 80 750 G1 (all are twins) all have two yellow stator wires. But there is a third wire in the same connector that is yellow and black. How about points or electronic ignition?

To determine if it's 79 or 78, does your ignition switch have 4 wires on it, or 5? If 5, does it have a yellow wire on it?

Some of the diagrams I'm looking at may be for the Canadian model, so there may be differences, but if you can tell me the colors on your ignition switch and double check the stator wires, I think that's all I'd need.

what guage wire would you suggest for replacing all the wiring?

You'll probably want 14 gauge for the heaviest current wires. And probably 16 and 18 for the rest.

You can always go heavier if you want to reduce the number of rolls of wire you have to buy.

This diagram errors on the heavy side for sure. You might even get away with 16 gauge where I show the 14 as long as you are using the stock ignition setup and stock headlight wattage.

1982 KZ550 bare bones for Nkymain485




EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1982 Kawasaki Kz550 for Nkymain485 (not Nkymain458 )
Kz 550

I'll start a new topic with the details for Hardrock68, but this is the bare bones version for his 77 650 C1.

1977 KZ650 KZ650C1 bare bones with Dyna S for Hardrock68.

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EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1977 Kawasaki Kz650C1 with Dyna S for Hardrock68
Kz650C Kz650 C1 Kz 650 C 650C1 650C

Ok Loud I went ahead and installed the permanent magnet system; honestly it was because I had the parts here and because they make an over-wound stator that I may use if needed...


However I have no Idea what to do with the brown wire (pos for lights?) because the reg/rec only has 3 yellow in, one positive and one ground. I think I just hook the brown to the positive out but I want to be sure.


Also when you saw power for lights and power for ground will these run my current lighting system as it is (gauge lights, indicators, high/low beam) and if so where do I tie them in? (in the 9 pin or back by the battery).

Do you know any place to pick up wire in about 20' sections in the colors I will need? (I ordered some from z1 but it is all 16 gauge, I would prefer 14... what do you think?)

Thanks for the help, wiring really is black magic to me!

So you installed a 650 alternator from 78 or 79? Those are single phase, and their combo regulator/rectifiers don't have the brown wire. But some later reg/rec combos do. I drew in the brown wire, but if your reg/rec doesn't have the brown wire, then just ignore that wire.