TOPIC:

Told me the carbs were vapor blasted and jetted to stock and rebuilt for my 1977 KZ650. . I bought them and not cheap at $500.

Then, in examining them, I find out they are jetted for pods and look at the carb floats! . All different heights and not level at all. I also had to buy the stock jets and put them in. Some ppl in this motorcycle hobby are simply crooks.

i've had many sets of carb floats look like that. It will not effect performance as long as the float height is set correctly. bummer on the jets though. OEM jets aren't cheap

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DoctoRot wrote: i've had many sets of carb floats look like that. It will not effect performance as long as the float height is set correctly. bummer on the jets though. OEM jets aren't cheap

not too bad. a total of $26 for 4 main and 4 pilot OEM Mikuni. SWest sent me a link. Or maybe 650Ed. Cant recall.

#4 looks beat up from the kick starter. The floats look bent a little. They can be bent back then reset. Glad you got genuine Mik jets. I have a SHT load of jets I'll never use. Good thing I didn't get them from jetsRus.
Steve

SWest wrote: #4 looks beat up from the kick starter. The floats look bent a little. They can be bent back then reset. Glad you got genuine Mik jets. I have a SHT load of jets I'll never use. Good thing I didn't get them from jetsRus.
Steve

What float looks bent (carbs are greek to me but I know what floats are). How do they appear bent and what is the solution?

What do you mean 4 looks beat up from the kick starter? I dont understand that at all.

On #2 float one side is higher than the other. I'd make them all even. There's a tab on each one preventing them from getting too low. Having them upside down you can tell which one is too high or too low. Looking from the side they should all be even and at 90* to the carb bodies. The adjustment tang should be almost level with the float arms. Too much of a bend will make the float needles cock sideways preventing them from closing fully. To get the adjustments in the ballpark the arms can be bent so the tang touches the needle then the tang is the fine adjustment.
The intake bell on #4 looks like it got beat up by the kick start lever at one time. Not too bad but it seems they had a rough PO.
Steve

SWest wrote: On #2 float one side is higher than the other. I'd make them all even. There's a tab on each one preventing them from getting too low. Having them upside down you can tell which one is too high or too low. Looking from the side they should all be even and at 90* to the carb bodies. The adjustment tang should be almost level with the float arms. Too much of a bend will make the float needles cock sideways preventing them from closing fully. To get the adjustments in the ballpark the arms can be bent so the tang touches the needle then the tang is the fine adjustment.
The intake bell on #4 looks like it got beat up by the kick start lever at one time. Not too bad but it seems they had a rough PO.
Steve

I did see they are all uneven. According to a friend, thats easily remedied. Hes popping round tomorrow to sort these.

He came by last weekend and said they are gorgeous. I agree. Worth $500? not sure but they are rebuilt and clean inside and out.

Here more pics. Despite the flaws, they are beautiful

2nd what Steve said. Set them upside down and see where they are.

old_kaw wrote: 2nd what Steve said. Set them upside down and see where they are.

Upside down they look fine, but shouldnt they be level when the carbs are right side up, as when they are on the bike? Im trying to understand how having them upside down and looking at if they are even across the floats, can determine if it will run right.

I would think, if when its right side up and some floats are hanging down lower than others, that could cause flooding?

Here are pics I just took:

Never ever have seen the tang of the float body so much bent like yours.
They should be near equal leveled high to the brass float holders. Wrong needle valves?

I've been buying, restoring, and reselling carbs for a few years now. That set looks really nice, hopefully all the plating was not removed from the steel parts. It's easy to bead blast (or vapor blast) the outside but the plating comes off when you do that and replacing that is a lot of work (if you have a platting kit that is (like I do)). Anyway, you can't judge true condition by a pretty exterior. I strongly suggest you perform the "clear tube test" on those carbs. That will tell the story about fuel level. Don't assume anything. Measure.

Nessism wrote: I've been buying, restoring, and reselling carbs for a few years now. That set looks really nice, hopefully all the plating was not removed from the steel parts. It's easy to bead blast (or vapor blast) the outside but the plating comes off when you do that and replacing that is a lot of work (if you have a platting kit that is (like I do)). Anyway, you can't judge true condition by a pretty exterior. I strongly suggest you perform the "clear tube test" on those carbs. That will tell the story about fuel level. Don't assume anything. Measure.

Thank you sir!