TOPIC:

Scirocco wrote: Never ever have seen the tang of the float body so much bent like yours.
They should be near equal leveled high to the brass float holders. Wrong needle valves?

Hmmm. Thank goodness the carbs I have on the bike run well enough, just fouling the occasional plug from time to time and poor gas mileage

I'll leave them in for a while and come back to these new set maybe next season.

What do your plugs look like?
Steve

SWest wrote: What do your plugs look like?
Steve

Occassionally cylinder 1 plug is carbon fouled and a bit shiny but it not oil.

After not starting the bike for about a month (back in january) I kicked it and kicked it and kicked it and I think i fouled the plugs.

The other thing I did was add nearly half a bottle of marvel mystery oil (haha - says you should only add a cap or two) to a full gastank. Probably how this problem started.

I'll pull the plugs tomorrow, but the bike smells like its running rich.

I dont know if I mentioned this, but I have 3 1977 KZ650's. The one I am talking about is mostly stock except for a delkevic 4 into 1 my son put on it about a year ago.

If you have overloaded it with marvel mystery snake oil, i would dump the gas and refill with fresh gas, i add 5ml of oregon fuel conditioner to mine for every five litres of gas i put in, it helps stop the seperation of ethanol, nothing more, also remove the plugs and heat through with a propane torch to burn off all the rubbish, your new carbs will need jetting to stock to start with and then possibly up 1 size jets for each circuit as your bike has a Delkevic on, it will also be better to do the float levels wet using the clear tube method i always set them up on the bench, and when the y are put back on the bike they only need a little adjustment, good luck.

Upside down they look fine, but shouldnt they be level when the carbs are right side up, as when they are on the bike? Im trying to understand how having them upside down and looking at if they are even across the floats, can determine if it will run right.

I would think, if when its right side up and some floats are hanging down lower than others, that could cause flooding?


It is not intuitive, but the fuel in the bowl causes the floats to, well, float. The higher the fuel level, the higher into the body the floats go. Their purpose is to stop the flow of fuel into the bowl when the level reaches the proper height. When the carbs are right side up with the bowls off, the floats will dangle freely as if there is no fuel in the carb. As the fuel flows through the valve, it pushes the float higher until it closes the valve. This should happen so that the fuel level in each carb is exactly the same. How low they dangle without a bowl or fuel is irrelevant. Some float measurements are taken with the carbs on their side, and the valve just barely closed, and the spring in the valve not compressed. Others are measured with the carbs fully upside down, with just the weight of the floats pressing on the valve and spring. Either way, the clear tube method is the most accurate way of insuring proper fuel level since there will be slight variations in buoyancy and machining tolerances.

Being even I meant one arm isn't lower or higher than the other one on the same float. Easiest way is upside down. As for the rest I agree.
Steve

SWest wrote: Being even I meant one arm isn't lower or higher than the other one on the same float. Easiest way is upside down. As for the rest I agree.
Steve

Plus 1 through 3 look like this. Plug 4 is normal. This is the set that is already on the bike, not the new, vapor blasted set:

Looks lie you're burning a little oil but not fouled. When I was fouling plugs they would be bridged and not fire. I ran BP8ES plugs with a deeper reach. Also I ran leaner pilots to burn the oil. That worked better but I was going through a lot of oil. Viton valve guide seals cured that problem.
Steve

SWest wrote: Looks lie you're burning a little oil but not fouled. When I was fouling plugs they would be bridged and not fire. I ran BP8ES plugs with a deeper reach. Also I ran leaner pilots to burn the oil. That worked better but I was going through a lot of oil. Viton valve guide seals cured that problem.
Steve

Im not losing any oil. The plugs have carbon all over them, not oil. Its carbon fouling. Popping in the exhaust and all the signs of a rich condition.

Anyways, if it is the value guide seals, what is the fair market rate to have them repaired? Whats involved? I dont have the time to do this. I would have to pay someone.

Popping is usually a lean condition. Your carberation may be way off up and down the RPM range.
Steve

SWest wrote: Popping is usually a lean condition. Your carberation may be way off up and down the RPM range.
Steve

Which could account for the condition of the black and sooty plug right?

How can the plugs be black (rich) and Im hearing popping (lean) which should result in white spark plugs? Im thinking the carbs are all jacked up.

A friend said this could be a spark issue as well.

Can it be a clmbination here? You have checked the valve cap?

I understand you can get popping from incorrect valve clearness also.