He said these carbs were perfect for my bike. I was not so smart

Warren3200gt wrote: There should be a fibre washer under the valve seat. Its usually red in colour. If its missing it would mean the seat screws too far into the the carb body and consequently the float tangs would need to be bent higher to enable the valve needle to seal against the valve seat to be able to cut fuel supply when the bowl is full.

As per scirrocco's pic below.

Scirocco wrote: A same size of a aluminum or copper washer do the same Job.

www.motorradbay.de/z650__br_year_77-79-k...180049c0f681a27115d7

Warren3200gt wrote: Ok, b7es is the correct heat plug, I prefer nippon denso equivalents but thats just personal preference.
Regarding a sooty baffle, that is normal even if your carbs are tuned in perfectly and have perfect plug colour, and is especially evident on 4 into 1's.
Going back to basics, with a oem airbox, stock jets and needles in the 4th slot with a delkevic your existing carbs should be eminently set upable with a fairly simple float height test, a colourtune for the the mixture, and a running vacuum sync.
Go through your carbs and confirm each of the above one a a time. You need to be systematic with these carb and bike set ups. Whatever you do to one carb will have an effect on all four carbs and cylinders performance.
Ignore your kids enthusiasm, many a bikes performance has been ruined by youthful desire to meddle.
Just swopping out for a different set of carbs will not fix anything and is the costly way to play it. Even if the second set ran perfectly on another bike does not mean they will run perfectly on yours. They need to be set up to match your bike and your bike alone. The condition of you engines compression and ability to create a vacuum for sucking in fuel coupled with your specific vavle and port cleanlyness all affect the performance of the fitted carbs.
So step 1. Confirm airbox y/n?
2, stock jets, y/n, if no what size are they?
3, wet test the bowl fuel heights and adjust as required,
4, set the air/fuel mixture screw to 1 . 5 turns out from lightly seated, these will be fine tuned with a colourtune when running.
5, Bench sync and when running vacuum sync them.

Things like valve guide seals can be semi checked by removing the exhaust and seeing if there is any oil evident in the exhaust port.

Not sure what your asking re hose connections.? Vacuum fed vm24's only have 1 fuel inlet to the bank which is in the middle of the bank between carb 2 and 3. Then there are two vent pipes which are located on the same level as the fuel inlet pipe but are located between carb 1 and 2 and the other is between carbs 3 and 4. These 2 are vents and should not be sealed or connected to each other. Ideally they should both be run up higher than the carb bank or even fed back into the airbox top hole.
The only other tubes are the 4 x overflow tubes located at the bottom of the float bowls.

WarrensKZ wrote:

Warren3200gt wrote: Not sure what your asking re hose connections.? Vacuum fed vm24's only have 1 fuel inlet to the bank which is in the middle of the bank between carb 2 and 3. Then there are two vent pipes which are located on the same level as the fuel inlet pipe but are located between carb 1 and 2 and the other is between carbs 3 and 4. These 2 are vents and should not be sealed or connected to each other. Ideally they should both be run up higher than the carb bank or even fed back into the airbox top hole.
The only other tubes are the 4 x overflow tubes located at the bottom of the float bowls.

I just realized, this may be the coils. Ive noticed on two occasions that when I go to start the bike there is no power. Oil like does not come on. I can kick the bike but sometimes it will or wont come on via the ignition key being "on." This only happened twice.

Hmmmm

Warren3200gt wrote:

WarrensKZ wrote:

Warren3200gt wrote: Not sure what your asking re hose connections.? Vacuum fed vm24's only have 1 fuel inlet to the bank which is in the middle of the bank between carb 2 and 3. Then there are two vent pipes which are located on the same level as the fuel inlet pipe but are located between carb 1 and 2 and the other is between carbs 3 and 4. These 2 are vents and should not be sealed or connected to each other. Ideally they should both be run up higher than the carb bank or even fed back into the airbox top hole.
The only other tubes are the 4 x overflow tubes located at the bottom of the float bowls.

I just realized, this may be the coils. Ive noticed on two occasions that when I go to start the bike there is no power. Oil like does not come on. I can kick the bike but sometimes it will or wont come on via the ignition key being "on." This only happened twice.

Hmmmm

Is that a reply to this part of my post? although not sure how you could confuse fuel/carb tubes with coil electrical HT leads. If it is when you have no oil light do you have electrical functions like the horn or indicators or lights? The oil light not coming on when you do have other electrical functions would lead me to think that either there is an issue with the pressure switch or is connections located behind the timing ignition plate. Or if you don't have other electrical functions then the ignition switch is likely temperamental.

Nothing to do with coils. Be systematic fix one thing at a time Concentrate on getting the carbs right and don't confuse yourself. Then move onto the next issue.

WarrensKZ wrote: ... the carbs I have on the bike run well enough, just fouling the occasional plug from time to time and poor gas mileage.

DOHC wrote:

WarrensKZ wrote: ... the carbs I have on the bike run well enough, just fouling the occasional plug from time to time and poor gas mileage.

You may have done this already, but you should make sure that the two air passages on the input side of the carbs are clean and clear and not plugged.

My first bike was a '77 Kz650. When I got it it rode fine but would foul plugs like crazy. Eventually I figured out that bees had filled those air passage tubes with bee mud (and a little larva is each one). Once I got the bee larvae and mud out, it ran a lot better.

Only one of those ports is part of the pilot circuit, but I can't remember which one. The factory service manual has cutaway drawing for each circuit in the carbs. If you look at the manual it should be clear.