TOPIC:

SWest wrote: Try a hotter set.
Steve

Too late I got the B7ES as normal.

Warren You might of already figured this out but the tang on float as shown in photos You provided is WAY wrong. Probably aftermarket incorrect float needle and seat. Contact between tang and needle tip (spring pin side) should be as perpendicular as possible thru it's travel till coil bind. This a general rule regarding any carb! The tang as set in Yours forces the needle back instead of straight down, "can" cause sticking/leaking. The float seats can be shimmed a bit to provide the perfect scenario but by looking at Yours that would be impossible.

asphalt900 wrote: Warren You might of already figured this out but the tang on float as shown in photos You provided is WAY wrong. Probably aftermarket incorrect float needle and seat. Contact between tang and needle tip (spring pin side) should be as perpendicular as possible thru it's travel till coil bind. This a general rule regarding any carb! The tang as set in Yours forces the needle back instead of straight down, "can" cause sticking/leaking. The float seats can be shimmed a bit to provide the perfect scenario but by looking at Yours that would be impossible.

Thanks for this! Im not going to use those carbs though. They are not on the bike. Im going to work with the ones that are on the bike, which are giving me problems as described in this post.

Just sad to think someone who apparently does this for profit would not be aware of something as obvious as this. I read thru some of the posts and someone mentioned the "blasting" done that removes the sacrificial coating off the metal, this is Very true! May look nice now but wait until they see moisture, flash rust city. Some guys you can tell they clearcoat these parts, as yours look to of had done. It works but paint on brackets are "in my opinion" a shortcut. Have them re-plated

WarrensKZ wrote:
But why would three float heights all of a sudden fall out of order, unless the kickstand has something to do with that?

Anyways, Im off to buy new plugs. I will pull the old four and post them.

Are you confusing float height and bench syncing as being the same? I have not noticed that you have wet set the float heights. Bench syncing sets the slide heights to ensure as close as poss each cylinder sucks the same amount of fuel/air mixture in.
Wet setting float heights ensures that each carb bowl has the correct amount of fuel level in.
Sorry if you understand that but some of your posts seem contradictory to me.

asphalt900 wrote:
Warren You might of already figured this out but the tang on float as shown in photos You provided is WAY wrong. Probably aftermarket incorrect float needle and seat. Contact between tang and needle tip (spring pin side) should be as perpendicular as possible thru it's travel till coil bind. This a general rule regarding any carb! The tang as set in Yours forces the needle back instead of straight down, "can" cause sticking/leaking. The float seats can be shimmed a bit to provide the perfect scenario but by looking at Yours that would be impossible.

Scirocco wrote: www.kzrider.com/kunena/3-carburetor/6102...smart?start=0#799963
Never ever have seen the tang of the float body so much bent like yours.
They should be near equal leveled high to the brass float holders. Wrong needle valves?

The tang angle of your carbs can keep the needle valve lock/stuck in the seat bore.

asphalt900 wrote: Just sad to think someone who apparently does this for profit would not be aware of something as obvious as this. I read thru some of the posts and someone mentioned the "blasting" done that removes the sacrificial coating off the metal, this is Very true! May look nice now but wait until they see moisture, flash rust city. Some guys you can tell they clearcoat these parts, as yours look to of had done. It works but paint on brackets are "in my opinion" a shortcut. Have them re-plated

Yep. Lesson learned.

Fibre washers missing?

Scirocco wrote:

asphalt900 wrote:
Warren You might of already figured this out but the tang on float as shown in photos You provided is WAY wrong. Probably aftermarket incorrect float needle and seat. Contact between tang and needle tip (spring pin side) should be as perpendicular as possible thru it's travel till coil bind. This a general rule regarding any carb! The tang as set in Yours forces the needle back instead of straight down, "can" cause sticking/leaking. The float seats can be shimmed a bit to provide the perfect scenario but by looking at Yours that would be impossible.

Scirocco wrote: www.kzrider.com/kunena/3-carburetor/6102...smart?start=0#799963
Never ever have seen the tang of the float body so much bent like yours.
They should be near equal leveled high to the brass float holders. Wrong needle valves?

The tang angle of your carbs can keep the needle valve lock/stuck in the seat bore.

Right. But these carbs are not going on the bike.

It was a mistake to have bought them and now I have no use for them.

The issues that I am having are on the OEM carbs on the bike.

Warren3200gt wrote: Fibre washers missing?

Not sure what this means.

Warren3200gt is talking about this

There should be a fibre washer under the valve seat. Its usually red in colour. If its missing it would mean the seat screws too far into the the carb body and consequently the float tangs would need to be bent higher to enable the valve needle to seal against the valve seat to be able to cut fuel supply when the bowl is full.

As per scirrocco's pic below.