87 KZ305LTD can't stay alive

punisher11b wrote: Yup, use that to line up the mark that directly follows after the valve has returned to its highest point.

Going counter clockwise correct?

What thickness feeler gage should I use. I have three that fit between each of the inlet and exhaust ranges. Should I pick the middle most one and set it for that?

How tight should it be? Just where it starts to grab? I may have over tightened when I did it previously.

I would go to the middle, then snug it up, you want it to were It just barely starts putting pressure on the guage.

punisher11b wrote: I would go to the middle, then snug it up, you want it to were It just barely starts putting pressure on the guage.

Some of my riding more mechanically inclined friends are worried that gas got into it and flooded the oil. I cant really say if it smells gassy or not as I am draining it now, but its def dark. Is Pennzoil 10W40 SAE SN ok to use? SN means it meets or exceeds SE correct?

That is very possible. You really want an oil made for wet clutches. So you need motorcycle oil specifically. However I usually use the cheapest stuff if I'm working on it. You may end up draining it again and why waste the expensive stuff. So I would say any 10-40 will work for now then do a oil change and put the good stuff in when you really start ridding it.

punisher11b wrote: That is very possible. You really want an oil made for wet clutches. So you need motorcycle oil specifically. However I usually use the cheapest stuff if I'm working on it. You may end up draining it again and why waste the expensive stuff. So I would say any 10-40 will work for now then do a oil change and put the good stuff in when you really start ridding it.

While cleaning the grime and debris off the part that holds the oil filter in place, seemed there were some shiny flakes in it. Any thoughts?

punisher11b wrote: That is very possible. You really want an oil made for wet clutches. So you need motorcycle oil specifically. However I usually use the cheapest stuff if I'm working on it. You may end up draining it again and why waste the expensive stuff. So I would say any 10-40 will work for now then do a oil change and put the good stuff in when you really start ridding it.

Is it possible that when I rip the throttle hard and fast its flooding too much gas in and thats why there may be gas contamination in there? Maybe I should not do that with this new oil and then when I change it again after testing, see if theres a bunch of gas in it.

It's most likely your running super rich if you have gas in your oil, or if you have been turning it over a lot with no combustion. Ripping the throttle I would think be very minor, as the hot engine will still vaporize most of that liquid. As for the shiny bits, could be a lot of things. As long as it's not a ton of it then I wouldn't worry much about it.

punisher11b wrote: It's most likely your running super rich if you have gas in your oil, or if you have been turning it over a lot with no combustion. Ripping the throttle I would think be very minor, as the hot engine will still vaporize most of that liquid. As for the shiny bits, could be a lot of things. As long as it's not a ton of it then I wouldn't worry much about it.

Its probably from starting it over and over and it not turning over since I originally started this because it woudnt stay on lol

Well the head of the screw on the alternator cover broke and two of the valve covers cracked. Think I am calling it here lol

punisher11b wrote: It's most likely your running super rich if you have gas in your oil, or if you have been turning it over a lot with no combustion. Ripping the throttle I would think be very minor, as the hot engine will still vaporize most of that liquid. As for the shiny bits, could be a lot of things. As long as it's not a ton of it then I wouldn't worry much about it.

One more question for you. When checking valves for right side of bike, what notch do I spin to?

punisher11b wrote:

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Here you go, just rotate till the valve starts returning back up and stop when you see that notch.

This notch is for left side, how many more turns and what notch for right side?

Should just be the next notch you see during the rotation after the valve has returned back to the top of its cycle.