87 KZ305LTD can't stay alive

Would the stock needle sizes work for these carbs?

I never ended up changing my needle, just used stock. I was able to Change the main jet and needle position to compensate and get it right. A smaller main jet has the effect of scaleing down the fuel flow which is similar to tapering the needle within 25-75 % of your throttle range. If you get it to work properly from 0-75% throttle range but doesn't work well for 75-100 then you will have to change your needle. You can also reduce the piolet jet to do something similar, but would only change the needle from about 25-50% throttle range. Depends where the problem area is. If you know your piolets are making it run rich at idle, and the needle gives too much gas at the 25-50% range then reducing the piolets it the better option. The other scenario is if you know your main jet is too big at WOT and the needle is giving to much gas at about 60% throttle then reducing the main would be a big help. Hope this helps, probably about a clear as mud, but maybe it will give you an idea of how the different jet systems all affect each other.

punisher11b wrote: I figured it might be. The right side engine cover contains your clutch disks and whatnot. Very possible you might need to replace the clutch disks (very easy) or could be a couple of other things. One problem at a time though. As long as the clutch is still working and your not planning on taking a long road trip soon, I would worry about the other issues. I'm glad to hear the valve adjustment helped. I thought that might be giving you some problems. I think the coughing from to much throttle is because the needle taper is so sharp it's causing the engine to get way to much fuel. If you feel like it's doing much better I would attempt to try adjusting the carbs agian to see if that helps. A really good place to start is to find out what size main jet you are using and do down a size or two and see what that does. At this point atleast it sounds like your on the right track.

The instructions in the manual for adjusting the valves doesnt make sense to me. So I am wondering if I got it wrong. When I took the plate off over the alternator, I saw the notches in the shiny metal part, but not the other thing it mentioned. I also am not sure how to read the TDC mark and I cant find the timing mark so I am not sure if i did it at all correctly. I adjusted it so that the little arms on the valves would move up and down so I could test the space in between on each one.

Heres some pics I did take.

imgur.com/a/p66Mi

punisher11b wrote: I never ended up changing my needle, just used stock. I was able to Change the main jet and needle position to compensate and get it right. A smaller main jet has the effect of scaleing down the fuel flow which is similar to tapering the needle within 25-75 % of your throttle range. If you get it to work properly from 0-75% throttle range but doesn't work well for 75-100 then you will have to change your needle. You can also reduce the piolet jet to do something similar, but would only change the needle from about 25-50% throttle range. Depends where the problem area is. If you know your piolets are making it run rich at idle, and the needle gives too much gas at the 25-50% range then reducing the piolets it the better option. The other scenario is if you know your main jet is too big at WOT and the needle is giving to much gas at about 60% throttle then reducing the main would be a big help. Hope this helps, probably about a clear as mud, but maybe it will give you an idea of how the different jet systems all affect each other.

Would you be able to scan and post the pages for the valve checking from the manual? The ones I have are super hard to read.

Here is the first paragraph or so and the next is the rest of the page on adjusting.



Wow there is still quite a bit of noise. The important thing is that you use the timing mark that comes directly after the valve comes back up from its rotation. The timing marks on your model are not the same. Look for a notch where the mark should be. Is stupid obscure and hard to find for some unknown reason.

punisher11b wrote:

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Here is the first paragraph or so and the next is the rest of the page on adjusting.

Attachment not found

Wow there is still quite a bit of noise. The important thing is that you use the timing mark that comes directly after the valve comes back up from its rotation. The timing marks on your model are not the same. Look for a notch where the mark should be. Is stupid obscure and hard to find for some unknown reason.

I cant see it at all. I see some notches but idk what they mean. If you look at that imgur album from earlier i tried to take photos of ot. Ay chance you can take ohotos of yours?

Here you go, just rotate till the valve starts returning back up and stop when you see that notch.

punisher11b wrote:

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Here you go, just rotate till the valve starts returning back up and stop when you see that notch.

That single notch? And should it be lined up with that tooth?

Yup, use that to line up the mark that directly follows after the valve has returned to its highest point.

Also what oil and filter are you using?