Piston Hole Kz1000LTD 1982

Sorry guys, probably a combination of my poor english and my lack of tech knowledge, but I really don´t understant what you guys mean when you say this:

"As Steve suggests some evenly spaced light pop marks or bearing fit on the saddles to tighten up their fit on the bearings is the way to go if you do anything."

 

You take a sharp punch and make a dimple in the metal that causes a raised portion around it. 
Steve

You mean punching a dimple here where I painted a red "circle"?

 

Yes not too deep.
Steve

Finally some movement. Today I took all the engine parts to the cleaner´s. Ready to be vapor blasted. Will post back results. 

Same happened to the frame. Off to the blaster and painter. Including side stand, center stand, brake stay and swingarm... by the by; what a nightmare was to get the swingarm bushes off!

Some pics for the before...

 

Hi everybody... long time, but have been busy since last. 

Things have advanced quite a lot. Status is:

- Engine went to vapor blasting and is back. Absolutely awesome
- Frame went to powder coating and is back. Absolutely awesome
- Tank and side panels are already painted. Absolutely awesome
- Cylinders were overbored to +0,50 to accept the new pistons
- Assembly has begun. Crankshaft in place, new cam chain in place (original was a bit stretched)... all in a superclean engine. Happy!

Will post some more pics, and will start a thread in the projects section, as this is no longer a "piston hole" thread. 

However... I have one doubt that is blocking me for a couple of weeks, as I cannot find detailed information anywhere. I´ve looked at the workshop manual, searched this forum... to no avail.

I have both halves of the engine ready to assemble. One holds the gearbox and clutch (and crankshaft etc.), and the other one holds the gearchanging mechanism. 

 


But, I really don´t understand:

1.- I feel gears should move freely (they don´t). See video
2.- How do the "forks" sit in the gears? What position should they have as I lower them in position?
3.- I´ve followed the manual, and the gear selector is sitting in the neutral position, but do the forks need to be "inside" the shift drum "channels"?


I´m reading the workshop manual (page 6-45), but it seems to say "just drop it, it will work"... and I´m not sure it will. 

Any ideas? 

Thanks in advance!

C.
 

I can´t seem to be able to get the video to be seen. Let me try again...

Gearbox Video

Curious whether the crankshaft thrust bearing and rod clearances have been checked per FSM spec tolerances?







 

Just a reminder. You need an oil gallery O-Ring and the trans bearing locking rings installed before case halves are mated.

cartal wrote:

1.- I feel gears should move freely (they don´t). See video
2.- How do the "forks" sit in the gears? What position should they have as I lower them in position?
3.- I´ve followed the manual, and the gear selector is sitting in the neutral position, but do the forks need to be "inside" the shift drum "channels"?


I´m reading the workshop manual (page 6-45), but it seems to say "just drop it, it will work"... and I´m not sure it will. 

Any ideas? 

Thanks in advance!

C.


 

Hi Carlos

The pegs on the forks do need to be engaged with the shift drum when you assemble, also see below for the locations the forks need to engage with

 
 

If you not already done it i recomend to inspect the transmission for wear .Check the shiftdrum and its bearing and the shiftfork axle for runout. Also check the shiftforks for wearThe drum can look fine when just looking at it with naked eyes ,but when taking hi res pictures the wear marks show up .Also check the geardogs if they are rounded

Daveo,

I tried to check per the manual as much as possible, but the reality is I don´t have dials. I did all I can with checking the bearings and tolerances with gauge blades. Looks really good to me, so I assume everthing should be OK.