TOPIC:

For reference.  Drill-driven output shaft:

photos.app.goo.gl/eTk9hc1Rty5PnviD6

With crankshaft removed.

Thank you guys (yet again) for the replies. As I have already closed the cases, I feel a bit uneasy to try to connect the drill to the output shaft. I fear for the new cam chain. I´ve tried, but cannot figure out how to do such connection, and I definitely don´t spin it fast enough.

I will take your picture as reference that all my parts are correctly installed, and go from there. 

Cheers.
C.

cartal wrote:

I feel a bit uneasy to try to connect the drill to the output shaft. I fear for the new cam chain. 

If the clutch plates are removed the gearbox and clutch hub will spin but the outer basket and crank are isolated so can't be driven by the gearbox.
If you lay the engine on some wooden blocks on the clutch side you haven't got gravity working against you and the balls will roll outwards much easier with little rotational force and once you are in second the rest of the gears can be selected without having to spin the output shaft.

zed1015 wrote:

cartal wrote:

I feel a bit uneasy to try to connect the drill to the output shaft. I fear for the new cam chain. 

If the clutch plates are removed the gearbox and clutch hub will spin but the outer basket and crank are isolated so can't be driven by the gearbox.
If you lay the engine on some wooden blocks on the clutch side you haven't got gravity working against you and the balls will roll outwards much easier with little rotational force and once you are in second the rest of the gears can be selected without having to spin the output shaft.
 

CAUTION:  What may be worthy of worry is for the life span of your drill, which may be dramatically shortened during this process.

I may regret this later; but I looked and reviewed everything in the gearbox, and it looks OK. I could not find a way to adapt a drill to the shaft, so I´ve decided to move on. I have a solid first gear and a nice neutral. I´ll cross my fingers, and hope it works!

So, as I move on; engine is now "closed", and everything looks neat. New large bolts, and reused all the rest. No threads were damaged in the process... so we are ready to install the pistons now.

Happy to see some movement. Pics for reference, and for expert advice on any mistakes I may have made. 

Cheers.

C.

Be sure to change out the old clutch push-rod o-ring while there is open access to it.






Ps.  It seems to help for viewing when a space is created between images as they are posted.

Thank you. Had no idea there was an o-ring in there. Good tip for the pics. Will do now.

Happy new year!

Pistons in place. Of course, I did drop a cotter pin into the oil pan, and had to take it off to get it. Of course it was the first one

Anyway; all done now. Ready to get the cylinder block on. I have a question: 

I don´t see any o-rings in the bottom of the cylinder block, just the gasket. Is that right? 

I´m looking at this image, and I don´t see any. The manual says nothing about them.

No O-rings at the bottom, but 2 x 92043 locator dowels at the front outside studs...



Ps.  BTW, I have a couple extra brand new clutch-rod o-rings just laying around.

...or a-round?





 

Thank you for the offer. The cost of postage and then customs, makes it impossible, though. This has gone out of hand!

Where would one tiny o-ring in an envelope need to be mailed? 

Madrid, Spain. Are you in the US?