TOPIC:

Yes! Thank you! 

I assume the locking rings are the "half rings" sitting on the external part of the axis. They are there. O ring is waiting

Thank you!

Thank you my friend. A second part of the question is:

1.- Should the gears be in any specific position when I get the shift forks into position? 
2.- Should the gearshift be in any specific position in order to "receive" the shift forks?
3.- Should the shift forks be in any specific position regarding the gearshift? ie: should the bottom "drum" in the shift fork be inside the gearshift "channels"

Sorry for so many questions! Thank you all in advance!

C.

cartal wrote:

Thank you my friend. A second part of the question is:

1.- Should the gears be in any specific position when I get the shift forks into position? I would recommend neutral, you can double check by holding the output shaft and carefully turn the flywheel, the two shafts (input and output) should turn independent of each other in neutral
2.- Should the gearshift be in any specific position in order to "receive" the shift forks? Neutral again (you will know if you are wrong as when you engage the forks with the gears the casing won't line up)
3.- Should the shift forks be in any specific position regarding the gearshift? ie: should the bottom "drum" in the shift fork be inside the gearshift "channels" The pegs on all three forks should be engaged in their slots in the drum

Sorry for so many questions! Thank you all in advance! it's all good 

C.

cartal wrote:

Daveo,

I tried to check per the manual as much as possible, but the reality is I don´t have dials. I did all I can with checking the bearings and tolerances with gauge blades. Looks really good to me, so I assume everthing should be OK.
 

Same here on the dials...I'm curious what your feeler gauge measurements are at those two points.
 
My engine bottom has 100K plus miles on it, and I never thought to check the thrust bearing gap while the oil pan was off eight years ago... 
And I'm not sure if a accurate thrust bearing measurement is even obtainable with the engine assembled.

Got it. I was stuck in my thinking and your comments made it clear. I´ve now managed to get it going. It´s in neutral, and I can go through all gears.

Working gearbox

I looked carefully at the gearshift, and found no evidence of worn metal. I see no damage to the gear forks, but I have no idea how to check it!

Excellent! I feel happy gearbox is finally in place. Ready to start closing the engine!

C.

There is a specification in the service manual for the width of the gear forks, and for the drum.  

Yes. I saw it afterwards. Will definitely check it before closing the engine

Thank you!

C

Mikaw, you are so right! I was hoping these o´rings would be contained in the seal kit, but no, they are not there and I did not order them last time I got parts from CMSNL.

So I´ve just ordered them (there are 2 of them) from a local Kawasaki dealer. Part number 92055048. Thank you for the heads up!

Allright... some advance this weekend. Spent a long time cleaning all bolts for reassembly. Will be changing the large 4 bolts at the sides and reusing the rest. Got the o´ring finally. Funny how the old one looks so different from the new one; I assume it gets flattened. 

Well, just a trial fit before I close both halves next weekend. Looking good!

 

OK! So work has been crazy over the last months, and it was not until yesterday I could resume work on the Kz. I just got both halves together, and got the bottom bolts tightened to spec as per the manual. 

Crankshaft moves freely, so no big deal here. 

However, I can only manage to get 1st gear in, and neutral. If I try to get second gear, it will just not "grab". I guess I am not moving the output shaft as quickly as I should? (by hand).

Any tricks here? I´d like to make sure the gearbox is OK before advancing on engine assembly. Thank you!

C.

Neutral finder issue?

The three 2nd gear lock out bearings with only disengage centrifugally so the output shaft needs to be spun fairly quickly to get them all to throw out at the same time which can be tricky by hand.
It's easier to accomlish if the engine is on its side rather than on its front or back but it's unlikely there will be anything wrong with it as it's a very simple mechanism with just the three balls in their slots and nothing else.