Spark Plug Hole Thread Repair

Sorry, i can´t help you.

From Wednesday, April 6, 2022, Yahoo! JAPAN is no longer available in the EEA and the United KingdomPlease be informed that from Wednesday, April 6, 2022, Yahoo! JAPAN’s services are no longer available to our users in the EEA (European Economic Area) and the United Kingdom, as it has been determined by Yahoo! JAPAN that providing a continuous service environment in these regions would be difficult. Please note that services listed under “Services available after Wednesday, April 6, 2022” below will continue to be available.Please note that all Yahoo! JAPAN services are accessible after this date if access is made from Japan.We sincerely apologize for any inconvenience this may cause and thank you for your understanding.*For more information on the member states of the EEA, please click  here .

wrote:

Hey guy's, I'm wondering if I should use anti-sieze on the SPARK PLUG threads, not the inserts...

 

Most sparkplugs are designed to be fitted dry so if using copper slip/anti seize lube etc you should be wary of over tightening and other issues..
Here's some text copied direct from the NGK website regarding the fitment of their plugs.  - - - .

NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.

wrote:

Sorry, i can´t help you.

From Wednesday, April 6, 2022, Yahoo! JAPAN is no longer available in the EEA and the United KingdomPlease be informed that from Wednesday, April 6, 2022, Yahoo! JAPAN’s services are no longer available to our users in the EEA (European Economic Area) and the United Kingdom, as it has been determined by Yahoo! JAPAN that providing a continuous service environment in these regions would be difficult. Please note that services listed under “Services available after Wednesday, April 6, 2022” below will continue to be available.Please note that all Yahoo! JAPAN services are accessible after this date if access is made from Japan.We sincerely apologize for any inconvenience this may cause and thank you for your understanding.*For more information on the member states of the EEA, please click  here .

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Oh boy. Sorry. didn't know about that. Wonder why though.

Anyway, how's about here?  buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/g1053511505

Still unable to reach it? Different head and I'm not sure if that's the right one. Just wanted to see if the site work for you guys. Other member here suggested a different site as well, but forgot what that site was.

Looking for parts for my bike but I always look out for other stuff too. After all, most of the bikes that we love are Made in Japan, so most of the parts we seek, they usually have them.

 

wrote:

wrote:

Sorry, i can´t help you.

From Wednesday, April 6, 2022, Yahoo! JAPAN is no longer available in the EEA and the United KingdomPlease be informed that from Wednesday, April 6, 2022, Yahoo! JAPAN’s services are no longer available to our users in the EEA (European Economic Area) and the United Kingdom, as it has been determined by Yahoo! JAPAN that providing a continuous service environment in these regions would be difficult. Please note that services listed under “Services available after Wednesday, April 6, 2022” below will continue to be available.Please note that all Yahoo! JAPAN services are accessible after this date if access is made from Japan.We sincerely apologize for any inconvenience this may cause and thank you for your understanding.*For more information on the member states of the EEA, please click  here .

---

Oh boy. Sorry. didn't know about that. Wonder why though.

Anyway, how's about here?  buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/g1053511505

Still unable to reach it? Different head and I'm not sure if that's the right one. Just wanted to see if the site work for you guys. Other member here suggested a different site as well, but forgot what that site was.

Looking for parts for my bike but I always look out for other stuff too. After all, most of the bikes that we love are Made in Japan, so most of the parts we seek, they usually have them.








 

TIME-SERT TIME AGAIN!

Had to drop an insert in one cam-cap hole this weekend...same strip-thread spring coil situation, just smaller.
 
Fortunately, I recently grabbed an old M6 x 1.0 Time-Sert kit (three 12mm long inserts included) for thirty bucks off ebay.  It's not in like-new condition as the spark plug kit, but hey...it works!
One trick was having to remove the protruding top lip of the insert using a drill motor and file...so the insert would fit in the existing hole above the threads without having to enlarge it.

I will tighten the cam-cap bolts to ten foot pounds (vs. twelve) from this point forward...

 

wrote:

I will tighten the cam-cap bolts to ten foot pounds (vs. twelve) from this point forward...

The 12 ft/lb quoted in some manuals is wrong and is too tight anyway.
8 to 10 ft/lb is the maximum you need when new.
I never use a torque wrench on the cam caps but just nip them up by hand with a 10mm spanner.

It took this tiny aluminum spring for a poor excuse mechanic to realize that the FSM is not gospel, but is simply a source for reference.

Over and over...it's KZR to the rescue!

Thanks KZRider's

According to my KZ650 (April 11, 1977) Kawasaki Service Manual the cam cap bolts should be tightened to 95 - 113 inch pounds (7.9 - 9.4 foot pounds).  I use the lower figure when tightening mine.  Ed

wrote:

According to my KZ650 (April 11, 1977) Kawasaki Service Manual the cam cap bolts should be tightened to 95 - 113 inch pounds (7.9 - 9.4 foot pounds).  I use the lower figure when tightening mine.  Ed

Is the FSM 20 ft.lb. spark plug torque specification considered correct, and typically followed?

I don't and haven't since my 350 Honda days. 
Steve

wrote:

According to my KZ650 (April 11, 1977) Kawasaki Service Manual the cam cap bolts should be tightened to 95 - 113 inch pounds (7.9 - 9.4 foot pounds).  I use the lower figure when tightening mine.  Ed
 

Yeah, my KZ1000 FSM gives the same figures for the cam cap bolts.  Also, buried in the text is the statement "All of these values are for use with dry solvent-cleaned threads".  Per Kevin Cameron, you'd want to reduce those numbers by approx 25% if using some form of lubricant or anti-seize on the threads.  Here's a link to Mr. Cameron's article:  www.cycleworld.com/2014/07/25/ask-kevin-...e-tightening-torque/ .  I've used this rule of thumb over the years and it's always worked for me, FWIW.  

Mike

Is the FSM 20 ft.lb. spark plug torque specification considered correct, and typically followed?

It is probably correct, but very rarely followed.