Top end time

Yep!!! Heat the head up in an oven. I use the family oven myself. Unlike a propane torch, the oven heats the head up evenly. When I go to put the new guides in, I put them in the freezer for a few hours before I go to install them. That way with the heated head and the frozen guides, they almost fall into place!!!! No need to BEAT them into place!!!! I would order some aftermarket silicon bronze valve guides instead of those O.E.M. steel guides. After you install new guides, 99 times out of a 100 you will new to cut some new seats.

I made up a tool that fits snugly into the bucket cavity and the guide installer tool fits through the tool in the bucket cavity. That way there is NO WAY I can install the new valve guide anyway but perpendicular to the valve seat.

There's just the slightest bit of movement in the exhaust valves. Noticeably looser than the intake. Hard for me to judge exactly how much.

Greybeard wrote: There's just the slightest bit of movement in the exhaust valves. Noticeably looser than the intake. Hard for me to judge exactly how much.

Sounds like they may be okay. The service limit is quite generous (maybe too generous) at 0.010". The manual details out how to perform the "wobble test" to check clearance. A properly fitting valve is much tighter than this though (less than have the service limit for exhaust and tighter still for intakes.)

Upon further inspection I suspect there is more wobble than I first estimated.
My calipers have the stems at 9.77. 0.22 out of limit.
That would indicate there's more wobble than my fingers feeling.
Eyeballing it, I'd guess it's more than a couple thousandths
My dial indicator has the wrong needle orientation to fit in there.
Time to get another set I guess.
This is getting pretty expensive between parts and tools...

What do the valve stems look like? KHI went to steel valve guides for a time and oil burning was a problem. They said one quart every 200 miles was acceptable. That didn't fly so they had to change them under warranty after being sued. It could be the stems are worn and the guides are still in spec. If they're steel I'd replace them.
Steve

What a coincidence, I was burning about a quart every 200 miles...
I'll post a picture of the stems.
I'm actually skeptical they're that worn as they measured about 9.77 from the tip all the way to the flare of the valve.
I'll try to round up a Micrometer and remeasure.

Dr. Gamma wrote: Yep!!! Heat the head up in an oven. I use the family oven myself. Unlike a propane torch, the oven heats the head up evenly. When I go to put the new guides in, I put them in the freezer for a few hours before I go to install them. That way with the heated head and the frozen guides, they almost fall into place!!!! No need to BEAT them into place!!!! I would order some aftermarket silicon bronze valve guides instead of those O.E.M. steel guides. After you install new guides, 99 times out of a 100 you will new to cut some new seats.


Yes, oven! As long as the little woman goes to work! House smells of burnt oil/carbon for a few hours.
I always go 350° Have welding gloves handy. Do your pounding close to oven because aluminum cools real fast.
You'll have to put back in oven a few times if you do all 8 guides.
And about media blasting? Always clean, degrease and clean again to get all oils out and off of parts first, I even dry heads out in oven just to get moisture out. THEN I glass bead. My cylinder head Guy, won't even touch a head or engine case if someone brings anything in already media blasted that he don't know about the history. My guy uses steel shot in a tumbler
, shot peens the parts. I myself, don't like that, as it dulls and darkens the fresh aluminum. Glass will screw up his cutters and grinders for valves.
Oil is what catches the media. Whatever, I got by 40 years of this stuff. Never ruined anything.
This was in only 4 days ago. I put a can of frozen soda in liner I took out. Plus I made a steel plate to hold the 3 good liners in place, as I was only changing 1 liner. As Dr G says, put new parts in freezer, guides, cyl. liners and bearings also. warm aluminum and frozen parts drop right in most of time.

After remeasuring the stems I'm getting about 6.96. 6.95 is out They have a ridge

Are the guides steel?

Parts catalog list them as the steel ones.
How can I tell without driving it out first?
Either way they should be replaced shouldn't they?

Greybeard wrote: Parts catalog list them as the steel ones.
How can I tell without driving it out first?
Either way they should be replaced shouldn't they?

Early 900 guides were bronze but were quickly changed to cast iron because of excessive wear of the inferior material used.
All 1000's are cast iron when OEM.

Valve guides are 7mm inside both exhaust and intake. Intake is a thousandth or 2 tighter, but both well within spec.
Just got my Starrett bore gauges in the mail today. Metric micrometers arrive tomorrow., but calipers have the gauge at 7mm or 0.275ish inches.
I'm not going to change them.
The valves stems are all worn within 0.01 of spec so it will be all new valves.
I have exhaust at 32mm and intake at 37mm face diameter. Does that sound right? Single keeper ring.
Any preferences on Valves?
Got all the gaskets.
Need to measure for cam bearings and for piston rings.