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03 May 2020 14:48 - 03 May 2020 14:49 #824903 by hardrockminer
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Bead blasting is best. It can get into all the crevasses on the cylinders and the head. Here is an example of what it will look like.


I have several restored bikes along with a 2006 Goldwing with a sidecar. My wife has a 2019 Suzuki DR 650 for on and off road.
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Last edit: 03 May 2020 14:49 by hardrockminer.
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03 May 2020 15:40 - 03 May 2020 19:55 #824909 by Nessism
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Gotta be careful with glass bead because it can get into the blind oil passages. My preference is soda for that reason. Or maybe get it hydro blasted from that sponsor of ours. That looks pretty killer when done.
Last edit: 03 May 2020 19:55 by Nessism.
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03 May 2020 15:51 #824912 by SWest
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A 50lb bag of soda cost just under $50 at HF. Good thing it's water soluble. Does a great job of cleaning aluminum.
Steve
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04 May 2020 07:18 #824928 by Greybeard
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What do you use to shoot your soda media with Steve?
Also
Looks pretty close to flat what's the tolerance on the surface?
The jug is still stuck on to the cases pretty firmly. Pull it and replace the base gasket?> Yes, or no?
Not looking forward to trying to compress the rings and reset the pistons if I don't have too.....

1982 KZ1100 D-1

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04 May 2020 07:22 #824930 by Greybeard
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Nessism do you clear coat it when it's been blasted, or leave it naked?

1982 KZ1100 D-1

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04 May 2020 07:25 #824931 by Greybeard
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650ed wrote: Next time simply soak the fasteners with Kroil for 3 days.


Wow it's made here in Nashville! Or at least the Kano Labs is here.

1982 KZ1100 D-1

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04 May 2020 09:09 #824936 by SWest
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I have a cheap sand blaster attachment. It works great. How many miles on the bike? If you disturbed the base gasket it will leak. You MUST get all the carbon out of the cylinders. The tolerance is .004 using a straight edge across the deck and head surfaces measuring in an X and cross pattern.
Steve
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04 May 2020 09:29 #824939 by Rick H.
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Hey Steve, not to be argumentative, but wasn't there something said in the past about leaving the carbon ridge alone at the top of the cylinders if you weren't going to take the cylinder block off? I could swear I recall someone mentioning that fact. The only reason I bring this up is that it sounds like Greybeard doesn't want to take the jugs off so therefore he may not want to mess with the carbon ring. However he must be certain he hasn't broken the base gasket seal. When I first started my KZ-1000 project I was trying to avoid removing the cylinder block, but I did remove the carbon ridge at the tops of the cylinders. Someone here said that wasn't a good idea and to leave it alone if I wasn't going to pull off the block. At least that's what I remember, but could be wrong. In the end my block came off.
Rick H.

Rick H.

1977 Kawasaki KZ-1000A1
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04 May 2020 09:33 #824941 by Greybeard
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The odometer has 28,000 and change.
Once my valve spring compressor arrives I'll pull the valves and have the head media blasted.
I'll ask a friend to run the valves through his ultrasonic cleaner and see if that doesn't get all the rest of the carbon clear.
Guess I'll be pulling the block and have it media blasted too...

1982 KZ1100 D-1

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04 May 2020 10:24 #824946 by CCrosswait
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Have fun removing the old base gasket material! It was a real PITA to scrape off. Found it's easier when you remove the studs but not required.

2019 Indian FTR1200S
2018 Triumph Rocket 3
1981 Kawasaki KZ1100A1
1977 Yamaha RD400
1980 Honda Express II
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04 May 2020 11:37 - 04 May 2020 11:38 #824955 by Greybeard
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yea I already ordered APE studs.
I beat the crap out of my impact driver. I was using a 5 pound mini sledge and hitting it as hard as this weak ass old man could muster with one hand on each tool.
Seriously ridiculous how hard it was to get the cam caps and the head caps loose.
Going deeper than I want for sure.
Both $$$s and into the motor.

1982 KZ1100 D-1
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04 May 2020 12:02 #824958 by SWest
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Rick H. wrote: Hey Steve, not to be argumentative, but wasn't there something said in the past about leaving the carbon ridge alone at the top of the cylinders if you weren't going to take the cylinder block off? I could swear I recall someone mentioning that fact. The only reason I bring this up is that it sounds like Greybeard doesn't want to take the jugs off so therefore he may not want to mess with the carbon ring. However he must be certain he hasn't broken the base gasket seal. When I first started my KZ-1000 project I was trying to avoid removing the cylinder block, but I did remove the carbon ridge at the tops of the cylinders. Someone here said that wasn't a good idea and to leave it alone if I wasn't going to pull off the block. At least that's what I remember, but could be wrong. In the end my block came off.
Rick H.


That was me. It looks like he disturbed the carbon on the pistons and it seems the rings are leaking. Could wash the bores with diesel by filling them then vacuuming them out but it has to be done until all of it is gone.
"The odometer has 28,000 and change.
Once my valve spring compressor arrives I'll pull the valves and have the head media blasted.
I'll ask a friend to run the valves through his ultrasonic cleaner and see if that doesn't get all the rest of the carbon clear.
Guess I'll be pulling the block and have it media blasted too..."
Don't blast the valve seats. I leave the valves in until I'm ready to lap them. At that point a little cleaning can be done being careful to not hit the seats. Maybe if the compression comes up the rings will seal.
Steve
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