TOPIC: Top-End Redo

Keep in mind that ferrous and non-ferrous metals used in conjunction are not a good idea in most scenarios.

Glad it worked for you.
Use what works for you.
I still swear by wire o rings around the cylinders for Boosted Motors
Dave

Definitely

Thanks Dave. So a gasket made for a 74mm bore will be larger than that after it gets compressed.
That means the Kawasaki piston oversize bores must max out close to 73mm. to work with that Kaw gasket...

Got it!

Take this thread wherever it goes...please!

Dave
I would highly suggest e mail Joe Hooper at Pitstop for pistons and gaskets
He is a expert and his prices are the best for MTC kits and many other parts
Dave

Joe recommended the MTC kit, and now I'm better edumicated to carry our conversation forward.
Thanks again!

www.pitstopperformance.com/top-end-assembly/

old_kaw wrote: www.pitstopperformance.com/top-end-assembly/[/quote


With this piston upgrade will she be noticeably different from an operation and performance viewpoint?

Maybe a ;little more UMPH.
Steve

SWest wrote: Maybe a ;little more UMPH.
Steve

My wife says I need that...so I must have her go ahead!

MTC 1135 piston kit has been ordered, and the cylinder block shipped-out to Pit Stop Performance.

Joe recommended having .120" taken off the piston domes to reduce cranking pressure, but he did not mention what effect that will have on the advertised 10.5:1 compression ratio.

Would anyone care to suggest what the resulting compression ratio might be, and what difference it will make for the engine size?

Why take off .120" on the piston domes? A cyl. spacer do the same effect much cheaper and you can go back if needed.

Or an extra base gasket?
Steve

I am not interested in racing, or having an engine that runs hot. Besides, this was Joe's recommendation based on 45 years of experience, and likely a conversation or two with the MTC technical department.

Does adding layers of thickness in the base gasket space increase the potential of oil leaks developing there? If so, then I would rather just stick with a single-layer oem base gasket.
Another consideration is the cam chain and related settings. Won't changing the height of the cylinder head alter the engine timing with the stock cam chain? Also I am using the stock two-bolt ZX sprockets, and would rather just leave the internal geometry of this motor simple and uncomplicated.

daveo wrote:
Another consideration is the cam chain and related settings. Won't changing the height of the cylinder head alter the engine timing with the stock cam chain? Also I am using the stock two-bolt ZX sprockets, and would rather just leave the internal geometry of this motor simple and uncomplicated.

If you bite the bullet then bite twice and buy a adjustable cam sprocket. Take off metal from parts is a one-way-ticket!!!

Scirocco wrote:

daveo wrote:
Another consideration is the cam chain and related settings. Won't changing the height of the cylinder head alter the engine timing with the stock cam chain? Also I am using the stock two-bolt ZX sprockets, and would rather just leave the internal geometry of this motor simple and uncomplicated.

If you bite the bullet then bite twice and buy a adjustable cam sprocket. Take off metal from parts is a one-way-ticket!!!

I agree, but I am a simple guy that takes short strides. Just swapping the head and cams was a huge adventure for me. The results were good for a limited investment of time and money. If I only get a slight increase in power this time in, then I will be happy. And if the engine can stay assembled for however long I own it, then I will be more-than satisfied.

You have to pull the head and cylinder/Piston anyway so why waste the way back ticket?
A man's will is his heaven, so go on....

I'm partial to the double base gasket idea. If the cam chain is original it might help. The adjustable sprockets can be done later if needed. I don't care for the shave the piston top idea.
I was talking to Jeff about building up the one pitted chamber on the head I'm working on. I mentioned I had beveled the chambers on the head I have to do away with the ridge created by the larger bore and I lost some compression by doing it. He said if he built up where the chips were missing on that one cylinder I would have to CC that one chamber to match the others and possably have some warpage in the head besides if I did that to the new head, I could run this crap gas we have to use. Are you going larger bore? If so that might be your answer.
Steve

Cylinders will be enlarged to 74 mm dia. which is only 1.5mm bigger. Should anything be done to the combustion chamber edge considering that amount?

Joe Hooper tells me 145-155 psi. cranking pressure is what he is shooting for, and he can not say what the new compression ratio will be.
It should be at least 9.5:1 which is what the 84 ZX1100A was from the factory, so I can't imagine it would be lower than that.

Street Fighter LTD wrote:

daveo wrote: Would someone please explain why the Genuine Kawasaki two-piece gasket will not work with the MTC 1135 (74mm bore) piston kit, considering it would likely be the gasket used with Genuine Kawasaki oversize pistons?

Dave
If your head gasket hangs into the cylinder by even a small amount as your mic shows the gasket metal surround wont be
in the proper space to be clamped down for a proper seal. Next the gasket will be more exposed to combustion heat and premature failure.
Next the gasket will be exposed to carbon buildup which cant be good, for detonation
Dave

The Cometic head gasket pictured below arrived with the MTC G1135-3 piston kit received from Pit Stop Performance.
Note the measurement compared with the image above, and...please advise.