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Gpz 750 head is bowed slightly
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convert-to.com/conversion/pressure/conve...-hg-to-in-of-hg.html
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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Some gauges may be calibrated in millibar; or mbar although those units of measure usually are used when measuring pressure rather than vacuum. Can you post a closeup pictures of the front and rear of one of your gauges? They should be marked. Below is a picture of one of my gauges; it's calibrated in centimeters of mercury (Cm/Hg). Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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jenningsjesse wrote: My vacuum gauges
If you look at the lower half of the gauge you will notice on the outside of the calibration ring there are calibrations for inches that range from 0 – 30 and on the inside of the ring there are calibrations for mm that range from 0 -760. Those are the vacuum measurements in inches / mm of mercury. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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jenningsjesse wrote: Sort of what I was thinking Ness. Vacuum on carb 2 is pretty low yet so thinking pilot passageway needs another cleaning. 3 carb was a little low compared to carb 1 and 4 which have a lot of vacuum. Anyone else had issues with lower vacuum on 2 and 3? Also what I'm wondering is if there's only a sync screw for carbs 2 and 3 together, how would a person get those two carbs to match up?
When syncing carbs the first thing I do is set up the idle to about 2000 rpm.
Then turn the adjuster between carb 2 and 3 and level out those two out. Don't worry about the level per say, just make them the same. Then move to one of the outside carbs, it doesn't matter if you do 1 or 4 first. Tweak the outside adjuster to make that carb level with 2-3, then move to the other outside carb. If 2-3 get out of level after adjusting the outside carb then move back and level them. At the end you will have all 4 carbs level with the engine running at 2000 rpm.
One caveat to this method, some sync gauges need to be manually set by connecting each gauge to the same cylinder and then adjusting a bleed screw. If your gauges are that way connect each gauge to one specific cylinder and make sure each gauge reads the same when on that cylinder. Once you verify all gauges are set, move the gauge lines to each of 4 cylinders and do the sync.
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