Gpz 750 head is bowed slightly

I am wondering if I am converting 22cmHg to the right inches for my vacuum gauges. Anyone know the exact conversion to use to get inches or mm of vacuum?

Just enter the centimeters of mercury into the converter at the site below to get the equivalent in inches of mercury. Ed

convert-to.com/conversion/pressure/conve...-hg-to-in-of-hg.html

Ed, is it a different conversion to air though? I have regular vacuum gauges that measure mm or inches of vacuum. Not liquid or mercury. I was thinking it would be different. Idk. Thanks for your input along the way too.

Vacuum gauges generally are calibrated in inches, cm, or mm or mercury (Hg) or sometimes water. That measure shows the height mercury would be drawn up a column for a given amount of vacuum. Because water is lighter than mercury gauges calibrated for water show higher numbers than those calibrated for mercury.

Some gauges may be calibrated in millibar; or mbar although those units of measure usually are used when measuring pressure rather than vacuum. Can you post a closeup pictures of the front and rear of one of your gauges? They should be marked. Below is a picture of one of my gauges; it's calibrated in centimeters of mercury (Cm/Hg). Ed

Mine are just regular carb sync vacuum gauges. Here's the picture.

My vacuum gauges

What does it say on the bottom line?
Steve

jenningsjesse wrote: My vacuum gauges

If you look at the lower half of the gauge you will notice on the outside of the calibration ring there are calibrations for inches that range from 0 – 30 and on the inside of the ring there are calibrations for mm that range from 0 -760. Those are the vacuum measurements in inches / mm of mercury. Ed

I've never concerned myself with vacuum levels, just that the vacuum on each cylinder is equal.

Sort of what I was thinking Ness. Vacuum on carb 2 is pretty low yet so thinking pilot passageway needs another cleaning. 3 carb was a little low compared to carb 1 and 4 which have a lot of vacuum. Anyone else had issues with lower vacuum on 2 and 3? Also what I'm wondering is if there's only a sync screw for carbs 2 and 3 together, how would a person get those two carbs to match up?

The one that doesn't have the screw is the lead carb. Bench sync them first.
Steve

jenningsjesse wrote: Sort of what I was thinking Ness. Vacuum on carb 2 is pretty low yet so thinking pilot passageway needs another cleaning. 3 carb was a little low compared to carb 1 and 4 which have a lot of vacuum. Anyone else had issues with lower vacuum on 2 and 3? Also what I'm wondering is if there's only a sync screw for carbs 2 and 3 together, how would a person get those two carbs to match up?

When syncing carbs the first thing I do is set up the idle to about 2000 rpm.

Then turn the adjuster between carb 2 and 3 and level out those two out. Don't worry about the level per say, just make them the same. Then move to one of the outside carbs, it doesn't matter if you do 1 or 4 first. Tweak the outside adjuster to make that carb level with 2-3, then move to the other outside carb. If 2-3 get out of level after adjusting the outside carb then move back and level them. At the end you will have all 4 carbs level with the engine running at 2000 rpm.

One caveat to this method, some sync gauges need to be manually set by connecting each gauge to the same cylinder and then adjusting a bleed screw. If your gauges are that way connect each gauge to one specific cylinder and make sure each gauge reads the same when on that cylinder. Once you verify all gauges are set, move the gauge lines to each of 4 cylinders and do the sync.