Gpz 750 head is bowed slightly

Zxe7 mark on mine is slightly below surface and IN mark on intake is level.

Believe loud knock is coming from valves on cylinder 4. Really stumped as to why there's good compression on all cylinders now, but 4 will is cold as cold can be. Has fuel, spark, compression. Cylinder 2 plug was a little black also. Just want to figure out loud knock and cylinder 4 not working at all. Was before I tore top end apart. Guessing I'll have to pull the head and start over, hopefully valves are screwed up now. My best guess is something just isn't right with my timing or valve clearances. Just does not make sense.

Don't pull the head yet. Check the spark plug caps.
Steve

I have spark though. And a super loud knock. Seems like it's firing at the wrong time or something. The loud knock has me concerned. Is this normal?

Not normal. Some valve ticking is normal, not a knock. Typically the Z7EX mark is a little above the gasket surface with 1-4T pointing at the alignment mark. Did you make sure to remove the tensioner spring and wedge before installing the valve cover, and then reinstalling after the valve cover is on?

I have a manual tensioner that I did have very loose before installing head cover. Then properly tighten the tensioner. When I was turning motor by hand, seemed awfully jumpy, and noisy before actually running bike. If I had the Z7EX mark flush, then the IN mark would be a little below gasket surface. Timed between 45 and 46 pin on chain. Turned motor a few times before stopping between 2 little marks of T 1 and 4 on advancer. Even it was off a pin or tooth, wouldn't have a loud knock and cylinder 4 not powering off at all. Guessing since I know nothing else could just poop out more than likely. That I had to mess up somewhere putting head back on, valve adjustments, or timing. Have spark, compression, and fuel to all cylinders.

I'm guessing I just had to put something together wrong. Giving it a few days before taking anything apart again though. As long as nothing's hurt.

Took cams back out and coils off, reassembled, and was able to sync, runs good, other than cylinder 4 is still a little colder than other cylinders. I cleaned pilots, but may do that again. Next pay day comes going to get new coils, wires, caps. And lube the advancer. Wants to cut out a bit at high rpms. At least it's running good, and no knocking. Thanks for all the advice and info. All of us may have learned some new things. Happy trails, riders. Sincerely, JJ

So I have what sounds like is spark knock 10 minutes after warmed up, when starting cold has slight intermittent backfire also. Wondering if how my cams marks lined up when I set my timing has something to do with this... I turned a few revolution and stopped exactly on T 1and4 on the advancer. But my exhaust cam z7ex mark in slightly below gasket surface, and when I put the intake cam IN mark to the correct amount of link spaces it was perfectly level. I've been told the z7ex mark on the exhaust cam can sometimes end up slightly above the gasket surface but not below like mine turns out. Wondering why mine is ending up the way it does, with z7ex being slightly below gasket surface and IN mark being flush like it should. If I put z7ex above gasket surface, IN mark on intake would be below gasket surface then. The way it's set right now. It looked like on cam positions, both cams are perfect. I am waiting for new 7mm HT copper core wire to get here, along with new Ngk resistor caps. Thinking spark knock is from old caps and wire. But with the slightly noticeable intermittent backfire, thinking my cam timing is still off, and it's actually my valves making spark knock noise. Bike runs great as is though, so I'm a little stumped. Carbs have been completely cleaned and good vacuum. And I believe my ignition timing is not adjustable being it's Kawasaki electronic ignition? Or is ignition timing a possibility and leave my cam timing alone? Thoughts please?

Carbs synced?
Steve

Carbs are synced, well 1 and 2 are perfect. Number 2 carb vacuum was low. 3 was a little low. Going to do another sync after replacing float bowl gaskets, and clean primary jets one more time to try and get 2 and 3s vacuum up like 1 and 4.

Steve I have be my 1 and 4 carbs set to 12 inches of vacuum, and realized and looked it up, That all carbs are supposed to be at 22 cmHg of vacuum. Which calculates to either 8.66 inches or 220 mm of vacuum. So after I install my float bowl o-rings, and cleaned pilot passages once more on 2 and 3 carbs, everything should sync up properly now. And hopefully eliminate my "spark knock". Installing new ngk caps and appropriate ignition wire when they get here. All I'll have to do is change fork oil, and grease front and rear of drive shaft pinion areas. All else has been serviced and sealed. Thanks again for being simple and to the point. You and Ness have been very helpful.