Gpz 750 head is bowed slightly

Just found another thread about the differences in 750 frames and engine cases, and solid vs. rubber mounts....hmmm - more research required...

-Scott

So since everything looked good, and probably just a bad head gasket. I am putting it back together as I have time, and wondering what the center 2 head bolts should be torqued to? The book says 22 ft lbs,, or close to that, but that seems too much for those little bolts. I'm thinking about 12ft lbs. would be more than enough? Broke one because of the book, unless I should look again and it said in. lbs... I know these get torqued after all head nuts are torqued. Hoping I have good even compression after all is done once again. And no more broken parts

Also does the cam chain have to be exactly like the manual picture? Mine lines up with starting at 0 on the first pin of a link, instead of in between links as 0 like the picture. Is this Okay? Can't get the chain to turn one tooth on crank sprocket to make it like the manual picture. Attached is the manual page for reference.

Regarding the cam chain:
1. Is it at TDC of #1 or #4?
2. Is the cam chain tensioner completely removed?
If yes for both. Just let all the slack off the cam chain and let it slip off the teeth on the crankshaft. Then pull back up on the chain and then try indexing it with the cams. The cam chain could possibly be between teeth on the crank or it may just be one tooth off on the crank in order for everything to be visually the same on the cams. It probably make zero difference if the chain links are off. It is only important that it has the correct number of links between the cam timing marks.

Just temporarily put back in the cam chain tensioner before you hand spin the motor to make sure nothing collides.

It's normal for the Z7EX-- mark to point a little above the gasket surface, that's because the cam chain may be slightly elongated. Shouldn't be much though.

Regarding those bolts, I'd be very careful to not over tighten them. They won't take 22 ft-lbs, more like 17-18 but use your judgement when tightening.

I've been sitting back and watching. I would still like to see pics of the cam bearing surfaces. When the cams are bolted down the alignment will change slightly. To torque the head nuts I do it in three phases starting with the four center ones going up gradually then I use the final listed torque sequences. On mine it's 30 foot pounds. The # 6 bolts I tighten by hand by "feel." A wrench won't feel tight spots or weak threads. They are done in inch pounds not foot pounds.
Steve

The alignment mark for tdc 1 and 4, there is only two marks right next to each other and says 1 and 4. So assuming I put the single mark right in the middle of the two marks, very close together these marks are. So yes I'm at tdc 1 and 4, not 1 or 4. 1 And 4 cylinders are same height, as 2 and 3 are also, as they fire together also.

I put pictures of cam journals and caps in previous comment somewhere. Thought you seen them.

I wouldn't think it would matter where the chain is at on the crank either. As long as correct number a pins between timing marks, and timing marks are where they should be at tdc 1 AND 4.

So got it back together, fired it up to do carb sync, and horrible knocking, and cylinder 4 is cold, but has spark and compression. Cams are installed correctly, as well as timed right, valve clearances are good. Not sure what the heck this things problem is now. Sure my coils are hooked up the same and correct also. Please help?

If you have spark and compression that means there is no fuel. Did you clean out the pilot jet and choke pick up tube & passage in the float bowl?

I have fuel because plug is a little wet. O plan on doing all the pilot jets, already thoroughly cleaned rest of carbs. Before I took the top end apart, all cylinders were firing, and no loud knock noise like a rod. So therefore my problem I have a feeling is something else. Carbs are working fine though, and know I timed cams right. Just don't know what is going on. I don't think it matter which side each coil goes on, as long as the Leeds are hooked up right as well as plug wired to cylinder?