Gpz 750 head is bowed slightly

Not sure if I've seen this on here but please run one or two box fans while doing this too...... you can relax a little more and not hurry as much and your motor will appreciate it. I get 24 on my Morgan on #2-3 and 4 and 24 and a half on #1 and when I run it up slightly (maybe 2,000) there about as close to just over 24 as I could get it so I'm leaving it. Benched synch'd em with a 1/32 ground brass rod and they came out this good but then again they are slide carbs too.

Not that it matters now that you got you head figured out but I had APE do the min head clean up on mine and it took only .004 to get it looking perfect........ didn't want much off cause I didn't want to degree the cams after so mine must a been pretty straight.

Worked like a charm Nessism.. Even vacuum now, purrs like they should. Think I've got about every aspect of these motors down now. And hope my forums with everyone's advice and help, helps others. Besides some of my spelling mistakes lol. Until next time. Take care always. JJ

So got carbs all done, synced, and new plug wires with caps. It didn't change a thing with the ticking apparently and slight backfire intermittently when cold. Today went to go for a ride, it didn't take long after starting, the ticking all over within the valve train got worse, and noticed slight smoke from passenger exhaust. I'm really wondering if setting all my valves to .15mm is too loose. But I've wondered if my timing has been off this whole time, and may have done a little damage now. When I set my timing, the zex7 mark was slightly below the head surface, with the IN on intake being perfectly flush, and correct number of spaces on the chain. The chain like I've said before didn't start on the link for exhaust cam like the manual shows, and at the time with everything completely loose, could get the chain to move one tooth on the crank sprocket. So with my timing, and chain the way it is, not sure what to do now... Very frustrated after all the work and money put into this bike, and now really worried I did damage that will be more work and money, and be in over my head. Please, thoughts on correcting my timing, and what would you set intake and exhaust valves at for clearances?

How about some photos showing the 7EX line when 1-4 T is aligned on the crank? Even if you are one tooth off that won't result in bent valves and a tic noise.

When you positioned the cams to check valve lash did you align the cams like the manual states? Or did you simply point the cam lobe away from the bucket?

I'll get a picture when I get to it. I pointed cam lobe away from bucket. Apparently not the way to go about adjusting valve clearances like others have said its okay to do.

When you adjust the valves with the cam lobe pointing away from the bucket the adjacent valve will be depressed many times, and that results in increased clearance when measuring by about .04mm. Most likely your valve clearances are greater than you think which can lead to some noise. I'm not sure that's the true source of your noise though but maybe.

I'm guessing it is. I'll know when I check clearances the correct way, and pull cams. When I get cam cover off, I will post pictures of cam timing and chain.

Cam cover is off, looks like things moved on me a bit but I had it timed right, just a half a link shy. Ex cam mark is slightly above head surface, and intake mark is slightly below. So guess if I move ahead 1/2 link on both cams, should come out spot on, and be in the correct starting position on cam chain. Center of link. Posting pics anyways, and I will do correct shim adjustment procedure once cams are spot on for timing.

The exhaust cam looks fine to me, the intake looks down though.

Yeah man, but they are spot on now because once again, I didn't follow the manual and listened to the wrong people. I had it timed on the 1and 4 T mark on advancer, not the T mark past the F1 mark. That is true TDC 1 and 4. Makes 0 noise now, and runs good. My valve clearances were still on, but still shimmed 4 valves, so they are all set at . 13 mm now.

One more question so I don't have to post a new forum. Can you repair cam bearing journals on the head for kz 750s 1000s? I have a kz 1000 head, that the journals looked like they gotten sand or something in between them at one time. Gouge like deep scratch in all middle journals. Motor makes no noise, But highly concerned. If I just should get a used head or not. Cam journals look normal wear. What's the best thing I should do?

Pic?
Steve