1992 Kz1000P Sticky black Goo on spark plugs

Use a little grease to lubricate the O rings or gaskets. Makes a good sealant too for tight places. :whistle:
Steve

Ok, the carb is Still leaking.
Heck, I even put Teflon tape underneath the o-ring of the gas needle seat and went from 18.6mm as per the Kawasaki manual to 19.6mm float level height (as a test only). I also submerged the floats in rubbing alcohol to see if there was a crack or hole and they seemed ok.
The gas needle and seat have been polished.
I'm going to go over the carb body with Good light and a magnifying glass.
The gas is coming out from around the needle jet and also the 2 round bottom holes that are on the air box side opening that connect to the air box.
Should I just lay down 70 bucks and buy one of those rebuild kits off eBay?
Or do you guys have any other ideas?

Adios, Kip

Pics of your needles and seats. I can get mine at jetsRus on line.
Steve

hardworkinpd wrote: Ok, the carb is Still leaking.
Heck, I even put Teflon tape underneath the o-ring of the gas needle seat and went from 18.6mm as per the Kawasaki manual to 19.6mm float level height (as a test only). I also submerged the floats in rubbing alcohol to see if there was a crack or hole and they seemed ok.
The gas needle and seat have been polished.
I'm going to go over the carb body with Good light and a magnifying glass.
The gas is coming out from around the needle jet and also the 2 round bottom holes that are on the air box side opening that connect to the air box.
Should I just lay down 70 bucks and buy one of those rebuild kits off eBay?
Or do you guys have any other ideas?

Adios, Kip

You say you polished the needles... Were those old and worn, or new or what? When those wear out they need to be replaced, IME. The seats can be renewed with polishing because they're brass, but the needles are chrome plated.

As to the float heights, between which points are you measuring? IME, to get a 4mm fuel height, the floats must be set to 19mm FROM THE INSTALLED GASKET to the shoulder on the float. That's about 20mm if you measure without the gasket installed. 18.6mm without the gasket installed will, I think, leave you closer to 2-3mm fuel height.

Ditch the teflon. Where'd you get the o-rings, BTW? What size are they?

My 33mm Miks are discontinued. Hard to get parts. I can get the needle and seat but It's $$. I couldn't get the seats to seal by polishing it. I took a drafting pincel, whittled it so it would fit inside, used fine valve lapping compound and beveled my own seat. The needle is not chrome. I stuck it in a short piece of 1/8" tubing and used a drill and #600 paper on a flat stick. Hasn't leaked since.
The clear tube method is the only way to go.
Steve.

This is where I'm at Everybody.
I have 4 carburetors, 2 I would bet a quart of cheap beer don't leak.
So I traded the seat and needle out of one of the non leaky carbs with the one that's leaking like a sieve and Whalla Now I know I need a New seat and needle.

I'll Be Back, Kip

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationHey Jack these are the o-rings I got:


Adios, Kip

Ok, Have The gas tank about 20" Raised above the carbs which have been leveled with a bubble.
I blew and sucked threw the gas tanks pet cock *Fuel* tit with the gas cap closed and that *seemed* to be working ok.
I check All floats for holes or cracks with a magnifying glass and also submerged them in rubbing alcohol and they all *seemed* good.
I lightly cleaned 4 New seat and needles and lightly greased the New o-rings and cleanded the orifice on the carbs the seats plug into and installed them.
I set the floats Super high making sure the float level tangs were not bottoming out on the top of the seats.
Blocked off the vacuum inlet on the carbs, hooked the gas tank up to the carbs and set the fuel tap/pet cock to Prime and let the gas flow into the carbs.

Now with the senairo I discriped above I Should be able to leave the carbs with fuel going into the float bowls All Day and Not have Any gas leak out the air box mouth side or intake side of the carbs Right?

Adios, Kip

Right. The float valves inside the carbs should stop the flow of fuel when the carb bowls fill to the appropriate level, and there should be no overflow. I you have not done so, you can use the "clear tube" method to check the fuel levels in the carbs to make sure they are withing spec. If they are set too high the float valves may not shut off fuel flow. If they are set too low the engine may run lean. Ed

650ed wrote: Right. The float valves inside the carbs should stop the flow of fuel when the carb bowls fill to the appropriate level, and there should be no overflow. I you have not done so, you can use the "clear tube" method to check the fuel levels in the carbs to make sure they are withing spec. If they are set too high the float valves may not shut off fuel flow. If they are set too low the engine may run lean. Ed

Hey Ed when I talk about float level I talk about them when they are upside down on the bench.
So right now my floats are set to push against the gas needle valve real hard. My "high" is your "low".
I know I still have to do the clear tube test but First I want to make sure that these carbs Do have the capability Not to overflow.

Thanks Amigo, Kip

hardworkinpd wrote:

650ed wrote: Right. The float valves inside the carbs should stop the flow of fuel when the carb bowls fill to the appropriate level, and there should be no overflow. I you have not done so, you can use the "clear tube" method to check the fuel levels in the carbs to make sure they are withing spec. If they are set too high the float valves may not shut off fuel flow. If they are set too low the engine may run lean. Ed

Hey Ed when I talk about float level I talk about them when they are upside down on the bench.
So right now my floats are set to push against the gas needle valve real hard. My "high" is your "low".
I know I still have to do the clear tube test but First I want to make sure that these carbs Do have the capability Not to overflow.

Thanks Amigo, Kip

Unless you do the leak test with the floats set at the correct height (that is, the height you will be running them at on the bike), then you're not really testing anything.

Having the tank elevated 20" isn't a fair test either, as it will never have to seal against that level of pressure in situ.

Ok Jack I'm going to try and get the gas tank and carbs as close together as I can. What would you say could be the Maxium distance and hieght I could have between the Fuel Tap and the carbs to do the Tube Test and setting the float hieght.
Also when I get to that point how will I know how many mm I should adjust the float tang as compared to the tube reading?

You guys have been a Great help, Thanks! Kip