1992 Kz1000P Sticky black Goo on spark plugs

hardworkinpd wrote: @ Ed and Jack and anybody else...
Ok , when I hook everthing up and turn the drain screw I get gas out and have a great big air bubble in the line.
How do I get the air bubble out and Still keep some sort of accurate reading?

Thanks, Kip

Well, I don't know how other people do it, but if there's a really big bubble, I turn the hose towards the ground to let enough gas in to fill it, then shut the drain valve on the carb, pour some more gas out of the hose so that the amount of gas is below the range I'm measuring, then I put the hose in position (with the zero point slightly above the upper range of measurement, open the valve, and then lower the zero point to the measurement point on the carb body.

@ Ed
Yeah when I open the drain valve there is always air in the line between the drain nipple and where I see gas in the line.
I can get rid of the air bubble by moving the line up and down but I think doing that thows the measurement off.

Thanks, Kip

@ Jack
Yeah, I kind of understand what you are saying. I'm getting kind of saturated right now.
The manual says to do this procedure with the carbs off the bike, yeah and kind of agree. I just don't see how I'm going to be comfortable doing the inner 2 carbs with it on the bike and besides if I have to readjust the floats or put new gas needles and seats the carbs have to come off anyway. I might just rebuild the whole damn thing. This taking the carbs on and off the bike is sure rough on the parts though. Thank goodness I have brand new intake boots. It's the throttle cables that have gotten the worst of it and the air box is getting pretty beatup. I think I'm going to leave the air box off at the next assembly and put it back on only when I'm sure the carbs are good.

Thanks, Kip

Tyrell Corp wrote: You need your Dr Spock ears on here, be logical on your diagnostics, if not personable, like me.

Generally, if it ain't rattling bad off idle or smoking when hot, it is either ignition or fueling.

I always recommend new 7mm copper HT wire and non resistor caps, followed by crimping new female terminals on the coils blade terminals. Try swapping 4 and 1 plug wires, or 2 and 3 and see if the problem persists...again, logical deduction

If that doesn't fix it, and you have fat blue sparks, you can eliminate that ignition part of the equation...for now.

If you check out my 'thar she blows ' thread that was fouling the plug...for good reason. But it was a very audible top end rattle too. As you aren't smoking through the pipe, I think you should try to do one thing at a time and eliminate the (easy) ignition misfire variable first.

Do that first and come back and report then we can (hopefully) isolate problem further.

Nest step would be a compression test, but if you aren't visibly smoking cold/hot then less likely.



Finally, a seal with a ball on it's nose is what I say when I can'y work it out

Tyrell, don't you mean Mr. Spock? Dr. Spock was a Quack. :lol: Gotcha. :woohoo:
Steve

hardworkinpd wrote: @ Jack
Yeah, I kind of understand what you are saying. I'm getting kind of saturated right now.
The manual says to do this procedure with the carbs off the bike, yeah and kind of agree. I just don't see how I'm going to be comfortable doing the inner 2 carbs with it on the bike and besides if I have to readjust the floats or put new gas needles and seats the carbs have to come off anyway. I might just rebuild the whole damn thing. This taking the carbs on and off the bike is sure rough on the parts though. Thank goodness I have brand new intake boots. It's the throttle cables that have gotten the worst of it and the air box is getting pretty beatup. I think I'm going to leave the air box off at the next assembly and put it back on only when I'm sure the carbs are good.

Thanks, Kip

I just have two nails in the wall and use a piece of bailing wire to hold them in position. That way I can do surgery without any hassles. Be picky with the carbs or they will be picky with you. :dry:
Steve

hardworkinpd wrote: @ Jack
..... I think I'm going to leave the air box off at the next assembly and put it back on only when I'm sure the carbs are good.

Bad idea. The bike will run very poorly and very lean with no air filtration, so it will be difficult to tell if the carbs are working properly. Ed

I second that.
Steve

hardworkinpd wrote: @ Jack
Yeah, I kind of understand what you are saying. I'm getting kind of saturated right now.
The manual says to do this procedure with the carbs off the bike, yeah and kind of agree. I just don't see how I'm going to be comfortable doing the inner 2 carbs with it on the bike and besides if I have to readjust the floats or put new gas needles and seats the carbs have to come off anyway. I might just rebuild the whole damn thing. This taking the carbs on and off the bike is sure rough on the parts though. Thank goodness I have brand new intake boots. It's the throttle cables that have gotten the worst of it and the air box is getting pretty beatup. I think I'm going to leave the air box off at the next assembly and put it back on only when I'm sure the carbs are good.

Thanks, Kip

If the bike is on the center stand, then the inner carbs and the outer carbs are at the same level. It doesn't matter how long the tube is... Just hook it up to the inner carb and measure against the outer one.

jackleberry wrote:

hardworkinpd wrote: @ Jack
Yeah, I kind of understand what you are saying. I'm getting kind of saturated right now.
The manual says to do this procedure with the carbs off the bike, yeah and kind of agree. I just don't see how I'm going to be comfortable doing the inner 2 carbs with it on the bike and besides if I have to readjust the floats or put new gas needles and seats the carbs have to come off anyway. I might just rebuild the whole damn thing. This taking the carbs on and off the bike is sure rough on the parts though. Thank goodness I have brand new intake boots. It's the throttle cables that have gotten the worst of it and the air box is getting pretty beatup. I think I'm going to leave the air box off at the next assembly and put it back on only when I'm sure the carbs are good.

Thanks, Kip

If the bike is on the center stand, then the inner carbs and the outer carbs are at the same level. It doesn't matter how long the tube is... Just hook it up to the inner carb and measure against the outer one.

Too late already got them off...Again.
Would of had to anyway. Found out one of them is leaking gas out the air box side.

And that's it for today!

Adios, Kip

hardworkinpd wrote:
Too late already got them off...Again.
Would of had to anyway. Found out one of them is leaking gas out the air box side.

And that's it for today!

Adios, Kip

It gets easier after the 12th time

Ok a qwick update while I eat a burrito.
Last night I had a leaky carb, gas coming out of carb on the air box side. The brass gas needle seat underneath the new o-ring was pretty decroded . Yes I cleaned this area with carb cleaner, polished the Inside of the seat and the needle tip about a week ago. But anyway yeah I took the o-ring off and looked at the area with a magnifying glass today and the surface area was wasted, so I polished that o-ring cavity and hopefully that solved That deal. Didn't leak for about 5-10 minutes, let me see what it looks like after an hour.

Later, Kip