Kz305 interference engine?

Nothing about whether the springs are crooked (cock eyed) or not.
If a person doesn't want to hear the answers, he shouldn't ask the questions.
Steve

swest wrote: Nothing about whether the springs are crooked (cock eyed) or not.
If a person doesn't want to hear the answers, he shouldn't ask the questions.
Steve

Steve is right.. if those springs are crooked and touch anything... the points are effectively shorted to ground and the coil is "ON" all time, killing your battery and heating up the coil.... the spark plug(s) will NEVER fire.

I use to try to explain things to my son. I could tell he was hearing something else by the look in his eyes. He'd screw it up and ask for help again. That got old REAL fast.
Steve

I'm lost, are you saying I'm not hearing the answer? Springs are not crooked at all and are not touching anything.

I can't for the life of me figure out how to do the timing though. Tried using continuity but gave up. When the points are both open I have no continuity but if I'm on the left spring and ground and the right point is closed I have continuity so I was confused.

Cleaned the points really well. Left the plate slightly retarded. Let it idle for a good 10 minutes and it started back up every time.
Went for a quick ride. Came back and had a hard time starting. Checked battery voltage and it was 12.4 and went down to about 9 starting. Sound s good to me.

Checked charging voltage and its highest was only 12.7. This seems very low to me. Should be around 13-14 I figured as that's what a car is.

The hesitation at higher rpm went away though. Still getting a slight spark from the points but not nearly as bad as before I cleaned them.

Well you heard that one. Good Job. You don't want it retarded. You want it spot on. In fact if you leave the plate screws a little loose, you can turn it to get the best idle. I suspect it's still timing related. Did you check to see if the advance is working? If you oiled it some might have gotten on the points. Spray them with carb cleaner to be sure they're clean.
Steve

advance is working for sure. it moves freely.


are the regulators common to not charge the battery on these bikes? if its the alternator im getting rid of this thing.

One thing at a time. Pics of your points plate and plugs.
Steve

Did my explanation confuse you?
You have continuity because the other coil's points are closed.... the resistance of the 4-6 ohms of the coil with respect to the 12V common source, is so low, ....your damn tester thinks it is still a dead short.

If you are using a self powered continuity meter or Ohm meter, shut the ignition off and have no power applied anywhere.
Maybe even pull the negative lead off your battery.
If not, you are going to have trouble and will need a low voltage tester and leave wires connected to the points.
I used to use a 6v bulb for this, soldered to a pair of 18g stranded wire leads with small alligator clips.
The voltage left over from dividing the voltage from the coil(s) to a "filament bulb" and to ground will not be very high.
I much prefer my self powered Ohm Meter!!!
So, if it's self powered like a cheap $10 DVM Meter:
Pull the two coil wires completely out of the two connectors at the points themselves!
Use the two leads of your low voltage tester or Ohm meter across just chassis ground and the one set of point's lead connectors or spring.
Don't reconnect those two factory coil wires to the points for a while until all these adjustments are done and you are ready to start the engine.
For the following test setup:
You can clip one lead of the continuity tester to the spring of ONE set of points and one lead to anything grounded!
When the points are closed, they are a dead short to ground and all you want to know is when they are open and closed!!

BUT FIRST, YOU MUST.....!!
Checking one set of points at a time, rotate the crankshaft to the part where those points are open as far as they can.
Loosen the individual point mounting plate and move the point assembly closer or further to the high spot on the ignition cam lobe and set the actual gap of the points at around .014".
Rotate the crank and do that again for the remaining points. Get them close to .014" or what ever your manual says is the proper gap.
You have now set the dwell angle and the points gap.
Make sure those four (two each set of points) locking screws are firmly tight (not overly tight, they are made from surplus slag and tin cans) !! They all are actually junk so be careful.

NOW; pick one set of point and rotate the crank to before the TDC mark for that set of points and find the idle speed timing marks on the advancer plate and the slash line in the aluminum casting.
Align those two together by gently rotating the crankshaft.
Loosen the other three backing plate screws holding the whole points assembly just enough to be able to move it by prying on the plate as per the manual.
Watching your continuity light, ...slightly move the whole assembly around clockwise and counter clockwise until you can see when the points open and close.....or when there is continuity and not!
Just exactly when the points open, that coil will fire when it all reassembled.
That's the magic spot!! Tighten the three screws and see if the light goes off..mess with it so you are sure the points just opened.
Do that to both sets of points if you want to check it but don;t forget to tighten it all down.
If not too sloppy, the timing will stay the same... a couple degrees + or - will not mess anything up compared to where you are now.
By the way, you can check the "over all" ignition timing one set of points at a time if you want to.....
but do not use the point gap setup or adjustment to alter overall ignition timing!!

to be honest your last post was confusing me.
i have a self powered dvom ( snap on ).

before i read this a coworker told me to disconnect the points from the coils to do continuity and that its back feeding through the coils.
ive already set the dwell angle/ points gap to .014. ive also cleaned them really good.

i'll give this another shot tonight and hopefully i can finish it. ended up drinking a few beers with the neighbour while trying to do this last night so nothing got accomplished.

If I wore a hat,I would take it off to missionkz for such a thorough explanation but really ,come on,checking your points and your timing are the most basic skills of any bike owner.What is the problem? Take any motorcycle service manual and work through it step by step. Do a full service and see where you get to. Many problems come from taking things for granted.Skipping bits that you think are ok. Getting too focused on something and not seeing the bigger picture. Calm down,get the book out and go through everything in order. 91.73% of the time the problem is something simple that has been overlooked rather than some big terrible thing from the dark side.
You can get pissed off and frustrated with it and I totally understand that.Or you can .....not and get it sorted.
Good luck with it.

i honestly dont know why i cant figure this out, i work at chrysler as a mechanic, i can diagnose and fix anything at work, rip apart an engine and put it back together but for some reason i cant figure out points, its pretty funny.

New school vs old school. :lol:
Steve