Kz305 interference engine?

I set the gap to .014.
For some reason I'm having a hard time understanding the timing part though.

My test light is always on no matter if the points are open or closed and I'm super confused. So I just retarded the plate slightly and went for a ride. Bike ran much better. Idle is more stable but I'm still getting hesitation at higher rpm with 3/4 to full throttle.

Went home, turned it off and tried to restart. Started good so I went out longer, stopped at a friends for a couple minites. Had a hard time starting but it started. Went home and tried restarting again right away with no luck. Gave up and went inside.

Still want to set the points proper and do the valve clearance though.

Finger nail file or points file. Clean with a folded match book cover.
Steve

If the test light is always on, then it could be hooked up to the wrong sport, or the point could improperly installed. It has been about 600 years since I've messed with any, but I seem to recall that where the wire connects there are fibre washers that have to be in the right spot or things go awry. However, I'm not sore it woul even start if that is the case.
Maybe it needs an exorcism. Know a priest?

I cleaned the points about two weeks ago. Could that really cause a hard start hot and not cold?

I actually had the light go off once but never again.

The power of Christ compels you.

I should also mention that I'm using gas from last year and still haven't changed the plugs.

I don't think so. Hard starting when hot is often valve clearance, battery or coil.

It's not his fault. :lol: Make sure the spring isn't crooked. A piece of grit or oil will make them fail. Look for sparking at the points. Misaligned or bad condensers.
Steve

Janz3n wrote: I actually had the light go off once but never again.

The power of Christ compels you.

I should also mention that I'm using gas from last year and still haven't changed the plugs.

Gas from last year :blink: the gas we have here would have become a solid mass of green stone long before that. There could be water, dirt, sludge and fossilized pterodactyls in it!!!

The points do spark sometimes when it's running. Figured it wasn't too bad though. Are they not supposed to spark at all?

Man, I feel so amateur with this points and carb stuff. It's hard when you go through school learning fuel injection and computers.

The gas runs my lawn mower still, looks fine too.

No sparks. It can run but not well.
Steve

well i guess i'll try cleaning it better then.

valve adjustment tonight. also going to try doing a continuity test to set the points instead of a test light. guy at work does it that way, might as well give it a try.

This is all pretty easy and 1920s technology...
Keep in mind that when the points are closed.... the 12v ignition circuit is complete... from battery/12v source, through the coils ("charging/energizing" the coil) and on to the points, which when closed.... complete the circuit to ground (with respect to chassis and battery ground).
When the points open, the circuit is broken and the back wave discharge from ""energized" coil, fires the spark plug(s).
That should happen at the first timing mark indicated and the advance mechanism for static or idle speeds.
A retarded ignition timing, 5-10 degrees is easier to fire at slow speed and cold start up vs 38-40 degrees at 3000 RPM.
When the engine is running, the weights in the advancer move the cam lobe towards rotation causing the timing of the open point firing the spark plug(s) scenario to happen sooner... faster engine RPM, the more it advances that 38-40 degrees timing, of when the points open... and all this is with respect to top dead center of the crank rod pin/piston, etc.
The points should always open the same 014" total gap though to set the dwell.
How long the points are closed, with respect to crank shaft rotation, is called
DWELL angle.