Black deposits on pistons

Just stay away from the gasket surface.

How about a small half inch cup brush on a dremel?

I guess you could try it. You'll know if your getting anywhere.
Steve

Started soaking the cylinders, pistons and head in simple green.
Also all of the 30 year old gaskets have been removed. They were carefully scraped with a razor and sharp chisel- and then the remainder was lightly sanded with 600 wet paper. The contact points are now very smooth and flat.





Tomorrow I will finish cleaning the head and cylinders.
The gasket set from Z1 also arrived today!

Aaaaaaand they're off! Get it done biker!
Steve

On whether to renew the rings I would check your ring end gaps - install ring into the bore and check whether it is still in spec. I know a racer who renewed rings on a 550 as they were 1 thou over spec, but said it made no difference on dyno tests,

I would have done a compression test before stripping it. When a 4 pot motor is left standing for years there is always one pot with an open exhaust and / or inlet valve open. The humidity in the air entering then condenses inside the cylinder causing rust often on just one pot, Sometimes you can even see a ring of rust inside the bore where the piston has been.

KZ Chop - you know the history on this from 500 miles? can you answer my 'head skim marker' question?

As for, "head skim", to be honest I'm not really sure what that is...
But upon pulling the top end apart there was zero rust present on any of the components.
Not sure if that answers your question.

Scrubbed down the Pistons and they are looking great!

I also started to remove the valves.

You are going to replace those seals aren't you? In responce to the last poster, If going that far into it, what's another $50 on rings? Piece of mind and knowing what's between your legs if nothing else.
Can't afford it, OK. Can, just do it!
Steve

Steve,
One step ahead brother.
New seals and rings just as you and others have suggested.
Hoping to pull the rest of the valves tomorrow.

When a person says, "Re-seat the valves..." What does that mean?
Just remove and clean the brass seats- and replace the seal that are on top of them?

No you lap them in using lapping compound. Two stages, first the coarse grind, then the fine. What you are looking for is a pencil thin line around the vale and seat. There should be no dark spots anywhere they meet in the line. I do one at a time and put them back in chamber by chamber. Don't get sloppy with this stuff, it will grind everything if left in. Use valve stem grease listed in your manual. Don't get it the guides. Wash everything in solvent then soap and waster. Blow out all journals and make sure they're clean. I use my screw gun to lap the valves. A little forward, then back, check and do it again till it looks right. They sell lap cups but they're a pain the ass to use.
If a couple tries don't get a clean line, the valve is bent, don't try to use it. If you sand the gasket faces, do so in a circular motion especially around the oil passages. Go in a circle around them. It's harder for oil to seep past lines like that.
Put up pics of your progress and like always ask questions. There are plenty of people here to help.


Steve