bore kit

yeah it'll take it, but for how long? now that's the question.

Find a friend who welds, weld the crank pins.
Put a heavy duty main bearing plate cap on it.
Your good to go

kzgeary wrote:

ok so would the bottom end take a 1105 kit with 10.25:1 compression or not

I'd shy away from 1105 kit and go either 1075 or bite the bullet and go 1197. 1105 will work but the sleeves are getting too thin IMO for a sound, long lasting street motor.

If you're talking about needing the crank welded, I'll say this. If it's a good, KZ 1000 crank and you're not going to put a slick and wheelie bar on it, you don't need to weld it.

On the other hand, If I'm spending the money for a totally fresh top end, the cases are coming apart and everything is getting inspected plus a new cam chain.

Never toss big money into a 30 year old motor unless you have inspected it completely

JMO.... other's will surely feel contrary or give you reasons why they would. I'm not here to argue logic, only offer you suggestions that are based on a lot of years with these old KZ's

Just don' waste your money on BS34 carburetors and you'll probably be just fine :woohoo:

larrycavan wrote:

DoubleDub wrote:

andy9802gt wrote:

Popular opinion is it takes a 10.25:1 1075, ported head, and your choice of aftermarket carbs to make 130- 150 hp at the crank which is about 110- 120 at the wheel. If you want things to be bulletproof then you have to weld the crank and back cut the tranny and put in studs. Hell I just want to give the young guys fits stop light to stop light on their "race bikes"

FWIW, it costs a lot of nickels and dimes to get 150 horsepower. Going quick isn't cheap.

Hmm...more optimistic than I've seen, but I'll defer to the more experienced. Not my realm of expertise!

It's called being realistic and he's right on the money.

Like I said...I defer.

larrycavan wrote:

kzgeary wrote:

ok so would the bottom end take a 1105 kit with 10.25:1 compression or not

I'd shy away from 1105 kit and go either 1075 or bite the bullet and go 1197. 1105 will work but the sleeves are getting too thin IMO for a sound, long lasting street motor.

If you're talking about needing the crank welded, I'll say this. If it's a good, KZ 1000 crank and you're not going to put a slick and wheelie bar on it, you don't need to weld it.

On the other hand, If I'm spending the money for a totally fresh top end, the cases are coming apart and everything is getting inspected plus a new cam chain.

Never toss big money into a 30 year old motor unless you have inspected it completely

JMO.... other's will surely feel contrary or give you reasons why they would. I'm not here to argue logic, only offer you suggestions that are based on a lot of years with these old KZ's

Just don' waste your money on BS34 carburetors and you'll probably be just fine :woohoo:

yeah but if its allready apart why not spend $75 and have the crank done,then you never need to get back in there again if you decide you want to hotrod it down the road.

PLUMMEN wrote:

larrycavan wrote:

kzgeary wrote:

ok so would the bottom end take a 1105 kit with 10.25:1 compression or not

I'd shy away from 1105 kit and go either 1075 or bite the bullet and go 1197. 1105 will work but the sleeves are getting too thin IMO for a sound, long lasting street motor.

If you're talking about needing the crank welded, I'll say this. If it's a good, KZ 1000 crank and you're not going to put a slick and wheelie bar on it, you don't need to weld it.

On the other hand, If I'm spending the money for a totally fresh top end, the cases are coming apart and everything is getting inspected plus a new cam chain.

Never toss big money into a 30 year old motor unless you have inspected it completely

JMO.... other's will surely feel contrary or give you reasons why they would. I'm not here to argue logic, only offer you suggestions that are based on a lot of years with these old KZ's

Just don' waste your money on BS34 carburetors and you'll probably be just fine :woohoo:

yeah but if its allready apart why not spend $75 and have the crank done,then you never need to get back in there again if you decide you want to hotrod it down the road.

I would agree, IF it's torn down, but the price is likely to be closer to $200 - $250 if it's got to be shipped out.

1000 cranks used to hold up to mild street builds like that. But there's been a lot of water over the dam since those days Jim.

i think worst case scenario.
with all those years of twisting wire nuts my right wrist sometimes sticks in wide open position(arthritis ya know! :woohoo: ),google my dmv record sometime! :blush: :woohoo:
as crazy as people seem to be about these 180 radial tires these days,thats a lot of rubber to hook up whether its a slick or or not.

larrycavan wrote:

PLUMMEN wrote:

larrycavan wrote:

kzgeary wrote:

ok so would the bottom end take a 1105 kit with 10.25:1 compression or not

I'd shy away from 1105 kit and go either 1075 or bite the bullet and go 1197. 1105 will work but the sleeves are getting too thin IMO for a sound, long lasting street motor.

If you're talking about needing the crank welded, I'll say this. If it's a good, KZ 1000 crank and you're not going to put a slick and wheelie bar on it, you don't need to weld it.

On the other hand, If I'm spending the money for a totally fresh top end, the cases are coming apart and everything is getting inspected plus a new cam chain.

Never toss big money into a 30 year old motor unless you have inspected it completely

JMO.... other's will surely feel contrary or give you reasons why they would. I'm not here to argue logic, only offer you suggestions that are based on a lot of years with these old KZ's

Just don' waste your money on BS34 carburetors and you'll probably be just fine :woohoo:

yeah but if its allready apart why not spend $75 and have the crank done,then you never need to get back in there again if you decide you want to hotrod it down the road.

I would agree, IF it's torn down, but the price is likely to be closer to $200 - $250 if it's got to be shipped out.

1000 cranks used to hold up to mild street builds like that. But there's been a lot of water over the dam since those days Jim.

I just paid $475 for mine to be completey torn down, cleaned, shot peened, honed the big and little ends, replaced the #5 thrust with roller bearing, indexed, welded, and trued. I hope it never breaks 'cuz I want to go 1197 in a year or two.

woudl a 1075 kit with 410 cams be ok on a stock bottom end

probably would run fine for years,but check things out first

I have an 1105 and it doesn't like the FL heat at all especially on longer rides in hot weather. Cooler weather isn't too bad but when it gets hot it heats up pretty bad. Once I can get the scratch together I'm planning on going back to either a 1015 or 1075 I'm looking to build something will handle the heat well. My head has had some porting done but I want to find a good balance between performance and reliability for the heat.

Deja....

Hell if I can run mine in AZ heat, so can you...
NOTE: Stop and go traffic, well hell not going to help but if your moving.... NICE!

Need one of these then....