bore kit

this is what i want to build,even fits under stock bodywork! :woohoo:

Given a few years and I will be seeing these parts welded up on some poor old kz, not that I am a purist or anything lol.

my god,aint that purdy?
even for a plastic bike! :woohoo:

would a 1105 kit with 10.25:1 compression be ok on a stock bottom end. it said it didnt need crankcase clean up

kzgeary wrote:

would a 1105 kit with 10.25:1 compression be ok on a stock bottom end. it said it didnt need crankcase clean up

1075 would probably make as much power with stock sleeves since the bore has better chance of staying round due to more meat left in the sleeves.
id still go though bottem end and weld crank,new timing chain etc......

My 77' 1000, with a 10.25 1075 kit, stock 26mm carbs,Dyna S ignition, Accell coils/wires, stock cams, stock head, Weisco pipe, K&N pod filters made 86hp at the wheel on a Dynojet dyno.

DoubleDub wrote:

andy9802gt wrote:

Popular opinion is it takes a 10.25:1 1075, ported head, and your choice of aftermarket carbs to make 130- 150 hp at the crank which is about 110- 120 at the wheel. If you want things to be bulletproof then you have to weld the crank and back cut the tranny and put in studs. Hell I just want to give the young guys fits stop light to stop light on their "race bikes"

FWIW, it costs a lot of nickels and dimes to get 150 horsepower. Going quick isn't cheap.

Hmm...more optimistic than I've seen, but I'll defer to the more experienced. Not my realm of expertise!

It's called being realistic and he's right on the money.

kzgeary wrote:

wanting to do a 1075 bore kit with 12:1 compression. would it be wise to do that on a stock bottom end, and would the engine hold that much compression.

Getting down to the original question...

You can't run compression that high on pump gas.

If you want a good strong KZ without a second mortgage, then here's a great all around package to do that.

1075cc 10.25:1 Piston Kit
88CFM head
CRS29 or RS34 Carbs [depends on a few things]

There are several good cam grinds to use. Each has their own distinct advantages. Some would be

Web 118 - Great little all around cam. Shim on Top

APE K410 - More upper mid range punch than the 118, keeps shim on top.

Cam Motion Z1 - Similar to K410

There are a dozen cams I could suggest. It depends on where you want the power and how you realistically intend to ride the bike. The cam selected is key to reaching that goal.

If you go with a cam that requires Shim on Bottom valve adjustment, the price goes up hundreds of dollars. Rather than do that, I'd sooner see you go 1197cc and stay with a shim on top cam.

www.flowbenchtech.com/porting/CRH/kz-data.htm

PLUMMEN wrote:

this is what i want to build,even fits under stock bodywork!

:woohoo:

For Christ sake :laugh: Put a turbo on anything and it rocks. Those things are for guys that can't run N/A motors and besides.....those bikes are as FUGLY as it gets :woohoo:

Oh.... g'day Jimbo ....just twisting your tach needle for you :silly:

There we go, got Larry in here. Now follow what he said!

I'd agree with him fully, all of this is more about how you intend to ride your bike, not how much HP you want it to make. Sure big numbers are fun but you don't want to lose that awesome drivability that these bikes are famous for.

ok so would the bottom end take a 1105 kit with 10.25:1 compression or not