KZ1K'S ENGINE PROJECT

my dad has the tools i need to glass bead blast it. i am going to have to do it in sections though

The factory engines had a clear coat of some kind if I remember correctly.

If you plan on blasting your bottom end, it should be entirely dissasembled to just raw cases. You can blast it assembled, but you need to build a block off plates for the piston ports from wood. Pull the studs, and just use some appropriate length bolts to hold it firmly inplace. The round holes/openings can be plugged with rubber expansion plugs, you can purchase from a local pool store.

I've seen glass, but didnt like the results. i believe theres alot more to it than jsut hitting it with air and some crushed media. There's a technique, and specific air pressure, and specific soda type, etc. for the best shiney results.

Do it, just DO IT.

here is a good read explaining each media.... www.dansmc.com/sandblasting.htm

when i do the jugs do i need to stay away from the sleeves?

Have you thought of baking soda as a media? It will dissolve in water and is much more forgiving. It works pretty good with the engine assembled but disassembled I would use glass beads myself.

Here is my 650 motor done with soda during a frame swap
Bag of soda from Harbour Freight and a cheap gun

hey man thanks for chimming in on the thread. i read you used soda, but recommend glass when dissasebled...why? also, did you strip the motor so it was just the case, or how did you do it?

porchev914 wrote:

...Once they got done with my engine, it looked better than new, or at least what I imagined was better than new

Thinking the company's name was mentioned in an earlier thread, but can't recall it.

Also vaguely remembering that it isn't paint, but that they wouldn't disclose the process.

Undeniably gorgeous!

Is she aging well?

There was another company (relatively expensive) that produced beautiful results by using a process that involved "rolling" the parts in a "polishing" media of some kind prior to reassembly.

Good Fortune!

I would need to double check, but the company that blasted my engine parts was J&P Deburring in Chatsworth Ca. It was an all media blast process, but there are 4-5 different steps involved. And yes Patton, your memory serves you well..... they refused to disclose their alleged proprietary process :ohmy: For the result though, it was worth every penny

adam, is that a oil cooler i see to the left?

kz1k wrote:

when i do the jugs do i need to stay away from the sleeves?

YES absolutely. If a sleeve recieves so much as a whiff of any material like glass/sand/hard stuff at high pressure, then it will likely require replacement. The soda/walnet shell/soft stuff will not harm the sleeves if an occasional bit sprays in there. Do not spray any of it directly against a sleeve for any length of time purposely of course.

TeK9iNe wrote:

kz1k wrote:

when i do the jugs do i need to stay away from the sleeves?

YES absolutely. If a sleeve recieves so much as a whiff of any material like glass/sand/hard stuff at high pressure, then it will likely require replacement. The soda/walnet shell/soft stuff will not harm the sleeves if an occasional bit sprays in there. Do not spray any of it directly against a sleeve for any length of time purposely of course.

im ganna use the glass bead i think...ill be careful to cover the inside of the sleeves.

kz1k wrote:

adam, is that a oil cooler i see to the left?

No sir Joe, that's the oil pan.