750 R1 - I am forced to use the pods as there is no room for the factory airbox now that I have the zr550 battery tray and electronics crammed in there.
In my limited road testing, It seems to run perfectly so far with the pods. I am using the Factory Pro Stage 3 jet kit for the Zephyr zr750 that requires no drilling of the slides (which there is no going back from) But it took a lot of trial and error to get there.
I had previously run pods on my zr550 that also uses the keihin cvk carbs. I had also used a Factory Pro Stage 3 kit specially made for the zr550 and it worked fantastically until I tried to cruise at highway speeds.
Rather than retype it all, here is a excerpt I copy and pasted from the zephyr-zone.com forum which explains my issues and solutions.
"My reasons for switching to pod filters was for many reasons:
1. I was to inexperienced to know better.
2. My airbox boots were hard as a rock. When removing or installing my carbs when I first tried to get it running was a nightmare. I even knocked the bike off the side stand onto myself trying to wrestle the carbs on the boots once.
3. I found the K&N filters on Amazon for a third of the price of new airbox boots.
The first thing I did was purchase a Factory-Pro stage 3 jet kit (negating the savings of the air filters) and installed it according to the directions they listed for pod filters and a stock exhaust. Around town was fantastic. Any speed above 60mph it was unridable.
The issue that people time and again state, is that CV carburetors must not have any positive air pressure going into the intake side. When the carb has air forcefully blown into them rather than the carbs drawing in air at their own “pace”, the vacuum diaphragm controlled slides shoot up and dump to much gas into the engine causing it to bog down. Pod air filters flow to well and allow to much cross wind air into the carbs and at high speeds the air is actually forced into the cabs like you were pointing a leaf blower at them.
My first solution was to wrap my filters with vacuum filters. As described in this thread:
www.zephyr-zone.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1349470533/6#6
Last spring, the vacuum filters did not survive me removing them for cleaning, so I had to come up with a new solution. This time I made baffles to go inside the pod filters themselves to “shelter” the carbs intakes (where the vacuum intake for the slides are) from the onslaught of air coming in. I got the idea from some people using velocity stacks inside of pod filters to redirect the air coming in.
I made the baffles from the cans of the beer I was drinking at the time when I got the idea.
They were incredibly easy to make using only a pair of scissors, rivet gun and a single-hole paper punch. I made the length of the baffle so it starts at the mouth of the filter and seals tightly against the rubber back end of the filter, so the air has to go through the holes and can’t rush in the end of the baffle. I made sure to punch enough holes in the baffle so as not to starve the carbs of air and my unscientific tests I did showed no restriction in flow rate between a baffled and un-baffled filter.
The baffled filters work flawlessly with the Factory-Pro jet kit and It pulls hard from idle to redline and cruises smooth as glass no matter how fast I’m going."
I needed to drink the beer as fast I could so I could use the empty cans to make the baffles, so by the fourth can my craftsmanship was really starting to suffer. (that is the one pictured.) I was doing really unscientific tests with using a vacuum cleaner to suck air through the filter with and without the baffle. When the vacuum stopped struggling and was using the same amount of "effort" to suck air through the baffle as the it did without it, I stopped punching holes in the baffle. I wanted just enough resistance to stop the "cross wind effect" but to not starve the engine of air.
It works, but velocity stacks area more elegant solution to the cross wind issue. But they are way more expensive than a 4-pack of Murphy's Stout.
GPzMOD750 - Gearingcommander.com is what you need to use to figure out what sprockets to use with the 6-speed and see if you will get the numbers you want. That way you can calculate it with the exact rear tire size you are using...etc. It is less typing to load up the gearing for a kz/zr/gpz550 and then change the primary gear ratio to 2.55 and then your tire size and then go from there. You will need to get a new front sprocket at the very minimum, or you will need to convert it to the "keeper" style that the 550 transmission uses. The 17- tooth is the largest 530 sprocket that will fit without having to do away with the chain guard on the output shaft cover.