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bead blasted and painted plenty chromed stuff and never had a problem.
once the shine is gone the paint will hold.
been my experience fwiw,

leon

Good to know ,Leon. I will think on it. It does seem like a cheap and cheerfull way to go. Ill look into what HT paint is available in Europe. (Im having second thoughts about the PJ1 I used on the engine)

nice thing is, touch ups are cheap ...

keep us posted man!

leon

Well Leon,you got me thinking. I decided to forget about the pipe and leave it as is for now.T o just get the build finished and maybe come back to it later.
But,Ive always thought,that ceramic coating would be the best way to go. Goodbye shiny (but pitted) chrome,hello nice black pipe with a durable heatproof finish.
So ive been looking into this.Theres a place in England (postage!!) that does 'Cerakote'.
www.cerakotehightemp.com/
Which some may be familiar with as a gun coating.
and theres a place here in Holland that does 'Zircotec',
www.classiccarpartshelden.nl/wordpress/c...ng/zircotec/?lang=en
which is something similar. So, Ive got to get in contact with them and see what sort of money is involved.

yes familiar with the cerakote as i have a co-worker who has used it on his guns.
it seems to be nice stuff.

i myself have a 1911 .45 auto that has a www.duracoat-firearm-finishes.com/ finish that seems to be very tuff.

my buddy roy in norway really likes to use the finishes from www.kgcoatings.com/products/motorcycle-and-automotive

i am sure any of those would give a durable long lasting finish on your header.

keep us posted,

leon

Back on the electrics

My brain is MELTINGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I feel ya.

You probably already know this but make sure there are no fingerprints on that bulb. I know the feeling.
Steve

Hang in there David!
At some point, you're gunna have to bite the bullet and drop that loom onto the bike so all your ground/earth are present and accounted for.

On the plus side, that loom-mount-board you made looks like it would be perfect for strapping the body of a man against to keep him from falling over after melting his brain mysteriously

Ok,Ok,Ok!! I Think ive got it. On the table,everything now works. Again. I did this all a few weeks ago,made some vague notes which I couldnt decipher. Now ive done it all again (differently) and everything seems to work.
The mission was to fit European switches (from a ZX9R) to the American KZ1000CSR loom. This meant lengthening the original switch connections up through the loom so they would reach the headlight bowl and chopping and changing them around to incorperate an 'On/off' headlight switch,a 'Pass' switch. Ditch the 'Hazzard' light and reconfigure the 'Start/Stop','Starter cut out' and I cant remember what else. My brain is still a bit mushy.
Anyway,my question now,for those in the know,is, How important are 'Diodes'?
I know i brought this up before,but Im none the wiser. On the CSR loom there should be a single diode on the wire running from the flasher/running light to the tail light( with an off shoot to the fusebox) but on the ZXR diagram they are all over the place. On the loom Im building now,there are exactly none. Is this going to be a problem?

Here's a picture of a diode in circuit:



The diode is like a current cop in circuit.
In the left example, the diode is oriented so it passes current in the direction of the lamp (anode side closest to battery, cathode side closest to lamp). In the right example, the diode has been turned around, (putting it's cathode closest to the battery and anode closest to the lamp). As a result, the diode will not allow current to flow from the battery's positive terminal to the lamp.

It's easiest to look at the standardized depiction of a diode and think of that triangle as like an arrow pointing in the direction it allows current to flow.
That said, holding a diode in your hand, it may no longer have it's diagram printed on it but using your multimeter set to continuity testing (my MM beeps when the leads detect continuity), you can place your positive lead and negative lead on either side of the diode (out of circuit is best or the circuit could possibly be creating alternative routes so you are measuring JUST the diode). The red lead one side will beep - passing current and completing continuity - flip the meter probes around and suddenly the diode will not allow for continuity and your meter will not beep or read infinite resistance.
Dang that's a whole lot tougher to explain than I thought it would be...

As to why you have the diode in your circuit in the first place; Can you attach a picture of the diagram which shows this diode in-circuit or hand draw it because I cannot for the life of me find one (a diode) shown in the circuits involving the flasher relays for my CSR???
I seem to recall that you mentioned it wasn't shown in the diagram before but if you know which wire it's actually found on, then show that in a hand drawn pic or something or reference me back in your thread to where we discussed this previously.

The typical reasoning for using a diode (for automotive lighting application) is to connect a single element bulb to two circuits but not have either circuit affected by the other's use of that single element (I'm thinking rear signal lamps here - one element bulb but connected to two distinct circuits - turn and emergency).
But also, the diode has a forward voltage drop before it will actually pass current along the circuit (so maybe a toll booth operator is a better analogy than cop? ) it's wired in, so it can also be used as a sensing device too. If it doesn't see at least a single volt (for example, a quarter volt) it won't pass the current along. (Let's not get into this at this stage to avoid confusion).

When I look at the color diagram I have (which I believe I got from the files section here on the forum named: 457-kz1000b3colorized-wiring-diagram.gif) i cannot see the diode so it's hard to determine where or why.
The emergency flasher switch operates both sides of the bike - left AND right lamps - while the turn switch operates only one side of the bike - left OR right lamps but these are wired in two separate circuits using two different flasher relays so I can't see the need for the diode here. Basically, the emergency flasher button performs as a diode by separating the left from right side.
Hmmm?
Maybe that diode is used to stop the use of the turn function, should the 4-way function be enabled already?

Not sure how to do this. The diagram Ive been using is downloaded from the database ( its pretty much spot on when compared to the real thing) .Here it is as a PDF;


If that dosnt work,heres a link to it in the database
www.kzrider.com/filebase/download/94-kz1...000m1-wiring-diagram

If you look at the blue wire coming out of the front indicators,it becomes a blue/red wire,goes through a diode,becomes a red wire and continues onto the tail light. (There is also a red/white wire that splits off to the fusebox just before it hits the diode.)
I understand that a diode lets power travel in only one direction but if,as you say it also acts as a tollbooth,giving a voltage drop,then would that mean that without the diode,too much voltage would get through?
As I said before,Im no electrician and though Im confident that I can sort this out and get it all working ,Im more worried about doing something stupid that could melt wires and start fires!!
( Ive had a fire on a bike before,which when I look back on it,was quite funny. Having this bike burn up will not be so funny,so, Id like to try and avoid it!!)
Anyway,the hazard light system is gone,I have the front indicators now as single element,using the green and grey wires as the feed and earthing them back into a black/yellow from the main loom.There were 2 relays originally.One for the indicators,which Ive kept and one for the hazards which Ive ditched. The running lights/side lights system is also gone.
So,I now have,on the R/H switch I have Start/Stop.Lights On/Off
and on the L/H switch,I have Horn,Indicators.Dimmer.Clutch(Starter relay cutout).Pass.
Everything is working now,even the clock backlights and the idiot lights.